Author Topic: Oil Pan  (Read 1654 times)

Offline 74 challenge

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1247
Re: Oil Pan
« Reply #15 on: July 29, 2014 - 08:01:50 AM »
I am learning the hardway!

I hit a few of your potential no-no's. I did use RTV a small amount on the entire gasket. I do have an aviation gasket stuff that i used on my valve covers and it worked like a charm so i might go with that it is very similar to a contact cement type of stuff.

I am going to junk this oil pan and get a new one I need to start looking for a good one and some engine paint to make it all look pretty. I am also finding that the bolts are loosening up over time. I know this is not normal. They screw on, take tourque but back out over time, what would you do to avoid this? I don't think throwing locktite on an oilpan should be necessary? I will likely get new oil pan bolts while I get the pan. 

I know it's an old car and it will leak some drips but this is bad for any car.
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2




Offline Mopar Mitch

  • Autocrosser/Road Course Racer
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 682
Re: Oil Pan
« Reply #16 on: July 29, 2014 - 10:36:05 AM »
The only reason oil pan bolts would loosen over time is due to the gasket relaxation... I've never had this happen to any of my installed pans, but also I've never had any oil leakage.  I can't over-emphasize enough how important pan rail flateness is at every bolt hole.  It doesn't matter if you're using bolts or studs for this installation... flattness is critical.   Of course, you have to make certain that the threadings are free of debris.... regardless of bolts, nuts or studs.
Autocross/road racers go in deeper... and come out harder!

See  MOPAR ACTION MAGAZINE, AUGUST 2006 ISSUE for featured article and details on my autocross T/A.

Offline 74 challenge

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1247
Re: Oil Pan
« Reply #17 on: July 29, 2014 - 11:38:58 AM »
The only reason oil pan bolts would loosen over time is due to the gasket relaxation... I've never had this happen to any of my installed pans, but also I've never had any oil leakage.  I can't over-emphasize enough how important pan rail flateness is at every bolt hole.  It doesn't matter if you're using bolts or studs for this installation... flattness is critical.   Of course, you have to make certain that the threadings are free of debris.... regardless of bolts, nuts or studs.

Perfect!

This will be my next week project, at least the rear main seal portion and the replacement of the oil pump. I will likely get stuck waiting on parts.
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2

Offline Mopar Mitch

  • Autocrosser/Road Course Racer
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 682
Re: Oil Pan
« Reply #18 on: July 30, 2014 - 11:40:56 AM »
IF you're going to replace the oil pan.. this would be the time to upgrade to the Milodon road race/touring pan... its a great design and offers superior oil control under acceleration, deceleration and cornering.... a little expensive but a very high-quality design and well worth every $$.   Or else, add some welded-in horozontal plates around the sump (~1"-1.5" wide) with an angle cut for the pickup tube clearance, and a small hole (~3/4") for the dipstick... that's all I've done .. about 35+ yrs ago... absolutely the single best engine-saving mod I've ever done.... too bad MaMopar didn't design these horizontal plates into the factory pan for small blocks (BB six-pack/hemi pans have front/rear horizontal plates as factory to control acceleration and deceleration oil slosh.. helping to keep the oil within range of the pickup at the bottom of the sump).   IF you use any adhesive for the side rail gaskets, sparingly apply it so the gasket adheres to the pan rails, not the block rails (easier removal and clean-up if ever needed in the future... to clean the pan instead of the block.
Autocross/road racers go in deeper... and come out harder!

See  MOPAR ACTION MAGAZINE, AUGUST 2006 ISSUE for featured article and details on my autocross T/A.