What master cylinder....

Author Topic: What master cylinder....  (Read 1219 times)

Offline atlimann

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What master cylinder....
« on: September 12, 2014 - 12:07:41 PM »
hi guys, i have a 71 challenger with drum brakes on all 4 corners, no brake booster and just the original M/C

i just bought this brake kit a few months back http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront.aspx?itemno=140-11547-DR

i think i need a new M/C for this setup but i just don´t know what to buy ( i sent Wilwood mail about this a while ago and no answer yet).

Do i need 7/8" or a 1" M/C ?
Do i need a pushrod or not
do i need the prop.valve and what actually dose it do?
i am still a nweB at this  :)

Any and all advise is welcome... and links to :)

Regards, Atli
« Last Edit: September 12, 2014 - 12:09:50 PM by atlimann »
You see, a Viking does not care about relationships, women, or anything else that can cloud his testosterone-enhanced brain. He only cares about winning, leading, killing, kicking ass and being a man.
´71 Dodge Challenger 340 Sixpack




Offline burdar

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Re: What master cylinder....
« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2014 - 12:18:45 PM »
Technically, no you don't need a new master.  Your original one will stop the car just fine.  However, a disc brake master will have a larger reservoir for the disc brakes.(The disc brake calipers use more fluid then drum brake wheel cylinders)  It's a good idea to use a disc brake master cylinder.

You also will need a prop valve.  The valve regulates the fluid front to back.  Originally, your car would have come with a distribution block but not a prop valve.  If you had 4-wheel disc brakes, then you don't need the prop valve.(your original distribution block would work for 4-wheel discs) 

There have been issues with the reproduction prop valves.  Since you aren't worried about looking stock, I'd look into an aftermarket adjustable prop valve.

I believe your original brake pushrod will still work with a new master cylinder.  You will probably have to get a new O-ring though.  The O-ring on the end of the pushrod keeps the pushrod locked into the back of the master cylinder.
« Last Edit: September 12, 2014 - 12:21:17 PM by burdar »

Offline bc3j

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What master cylinder....
« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2014 - 02:30:47 PM »
I have a 70 Challenger R/T formerly a non-power drum brake car now a non- power disc/drum car. For me, I have a 1" bore MC, original drum distribution block and use Dakota pickup 13/16" rear wheel cylinders instead of a proportioning valve. No problems.
« Last Edit: September 13, 2014 - 02:32:44 PM by bc3j »

Offline arcticmopar

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Re: What master cylinder....
« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2014 - 03:18:20 PM »
  My 70 chally was also a manual drum brake car and I have been running those willwoods up front now for over 10yrs now. I used the 7/8? bore lightwieght m/c and adj prop valve also from willwood. Got everthing from Magnumforceracing.
http://www.magnumforceracing.com/

 If I would do it over again I would get the newer valve that has all 5 ports,adjusting knob and brake light built in.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wil-260-11179/overview/
 
 I will have to double check the bore size and if I needed thde adjustable pushrod. It's been a while.
RUNS WHITH SISSORS!  and  DIGITALY CHALLENGED!

Offline atlimann

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Re: What master cylinder....
« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2014 - 03:20:22 PM »
Technically, no you don't need a new master.  Your original one will stop the car just fine.  However, a disc brake master will have a larger reservoir for the disc brakes.(The disc brake calipers use more fluid then drum brake wheel cylinders)  It's a good idea to use a disc brake master cylinder.

You also will need a prop valve.  The valve regulates the fluid front to back.  Originally, your car would have come with a distribution block but not a prop valve.  If you had 4-wheel disc brakes, then you don't need the prop valve.(your original distribution block would work for 4-wheel discs) 

There have been issues with the reproduction prop valves.  Since you aren't worried about looking stock, I'd look into an aftermarket adjustable prop valve.

I believe your original brake pushrod will still work with a new master cylinder.  You will probably have to get a new O-ring though.  The O-ring on the end of the pushrod keeps the pushrod locked into the back of the master cylinder.


For now i am going with disc in the front and plan on a conversion in the future..

What bore do you think will fit my application, 7/8" or a 1" bore. i read somewhere that the bore will have affect on pedal feel?

i was thinking on this set here... they say it is a universal so it should fit.
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/wil-261-13269-bk

what do you think ?

Atli Már   
You see, a Viking does not care about relationships, women, or anything else that can cloud his testosterone-enhanced brain. He only cares about winning, leading, killing, kicking ass and being a man.
´71 Dodge Challenger 340 Sixpack

Offline arcticmopar

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Re: What master cylinder....
« Reply #5 on: September 13, 2014 - 03:31:38 PM »
 If i remember the original m/c has 4 a 4 bolt mount and I needed an adapter for it.
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/mamacyadnst.html
 And yes the m/c size affects pedal feel , mine is rock hard, but definatly works.
RUNS WHITH SISSORS!  and  DIGITALY CHALLENGED!

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: What master cylinder....
« Reply #6 on: September 13, 2014 - 06:28:58 PM »
Smaller bore = more pedal travel softer feel
Larger bore = less travel & harder feel

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