I just pulled my door window this week but I didn't see this thread until I had already removed the glass. However I did take a lot of pictures of the re-assembly and hopefully they will be helpful to someone. First off I'm no expert at this..... in fact the only reason I've done this more than once is that I keep trying to get the power windows to work. So this is just the method I use and I'm sure there are other ways to do this.
Keep in mind my car is a 72. I think the 70's have different upstops and the 73 - 74 cars use round plastic sliders instead of the rectangular ones. There are probably other differences as well.
Anyway, I hope no one is still on dial up!!! If so I apologize!
These are the reassembly pics so reverse the order for disassembly. The main thing I do thats different than some people is I pull everything apart while the window is still in the door. This includes the rear outside slider bracket (I don't know what the correct name is). I think you can actually leave it attached but it makes it a tight squeeze to get the window out of the door and with a painted car and window tint it's pretty scary to me to pull the window out without scratching anything. One other thing is I also removed the outer door/window seal. Otherwise it's a tight fit to get the window out of the door. Also note, that the first thing I did was remove the bottom rubber bumber down glass stop.
So when you follow this method this is the starting point for reassembly.
To further protect the car, I tape up the top edge of the door plus then taped on a movers blanket.
Back in the door I loosely placed in the front and rear window channels. I also loosely bolted in the window mechanism to get it out of the way as well.
Then I lowered the window in to the door putting the front plastic sliders in to the front channel. It really helps to have another person for this step (I had my wife help line it up while I slowly lowered the window in to the door).
Here's a picture of the rear outside slider bracket. What looks like a little piece of rubber hose go over the stud to prevent the metal from making contact with the glass. From the factory this side of the bracket was covered with some sort of paper gasket material. Mine was deteriorated and torn. So I used two layers of some really thin foam to takes it place.
Then with one hand I lifted the glass up from the bottom and used the other to place the outside slider bracket on to the glass. It helps to have a person lift the glass for you, but you can do it by yourself. I then loosely started the nut. Note that under the nut goes a really thin plastic "washer" which again is to prevent metal to glass contact. Make sure not to lose the little piece of rubber hose in this process.
Next I attached the bottom window channel to the glass. In the front part of the glass a screw is used to secure the channel to the glass by threading in to a plastic "nut" that goes through the glass. Note: in these pictures I'm installing an Electric-Life power window kit so the stock mechanism looks slightly different.
Then at the rear use another piece of the rubber hose to fill the hole where the bolt will go to secure the channel to the glass.
Another one of the thin plastic "washers" goes between the channel and glass. Then a bolt secures it in place. There is an access hole in the door that allows you to use a socket and extension.
Then the plastic upstop goes in to the top rear hole and a screw is used to lock it in place. This is a pain to get to because there is not a lot of room to work, but I used this little thumbwheel screwdrivers to get it started and then finished it with a 1/4" drive ratchet attached to the thumbwheel.
If the plastic upstop wants to spin while you are tightening the screw, use vice grips or pliers to lightly hold it.
Now the hardest part of the install.... this whole time I had the rear channel just sitting leaning against the back of the door. Now you have to put it in place. It's a C channel that grabs the outside slider from the front. So you have to maneuver the channel in front of the outside slider then move it back in to position so that it engages the slider. It's kind of a pain and takes a minute but it still seems easier to me than trying to line all that up while lowering the glass in to the door. Don't forget that the top of the channel goes under a lip in the door frame (I'll show that in an upcoming pic). Anyway, when completed it looks like this.
Now install the bolts that go from through the bottom of the door and secure the front and rear channels. Then the one allen head screw is used to attach the top of the front channel.
For the top bolt of the rear channel you can probably get it started with the window in the down position. However to tighten the bolt you have to raise the glass up and you can tighten it through one of the extra holes in the glass.
With the glass about halfway up it's easy to then install the front plastic upstop. Note: this is not the factory screw. I couldn't find the right one so I just used a screw I had.
At that point make sure everything is snug and begin to adjust the glass. Adjusting the glass is a pain and I'm not really qualified to do a write up on that.
Don't forget the metal upstop brackets (one front, one rear). This is the rear one.
Because I was installing the Electric-Life kit the rear support bracket (the one that controls the tilt of the window) was already attached to the mechanism. All I had to do was secure it with 2 bolts. With a factory mechanism you'll have to insert the plastic slider in to the support bracket. It's been awhile since I've done that and so I don't remember the best time to to that. I'm assuming it would be before the bottom channel is attached to the glass.
Anyway hopefully this helps!
Also, I'm sorry I don't know the correct names for all the parts. If anyone wants to PM me the correct names I can go back in and edit this post.
Travis
72 Cuda
