Author Topic: 340 Rebuild road block!  (Read 3807 times)

Offline 734406pk

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Re: 340 Rebuild road block!
« Reply #15 on: December 12, 2014 - 10:35:43 PM »
I agree this price isn't acceptable. Shop around to other Machine shops even if you need to ship out of state. I see in your sig USAF pilot! Thank you for your service and good luck with you're project!
1973 Challenger 440 6 pack auto 3.91 rear
2012 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 6.7 Cummins Fleece EFI Live
1973 Challenger 318 2bbl auto 2.73 rear 22.5 mpg RIP
1970 Challenger TA 340 4bbl auto-Sold and sad
1999 Dodge Ram 3500 dually 5.9 Cummins Fleece tuned VGT-sold
1995 Kawasaki ZX1100E & still alive




Offline 73restomod

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Re: 340 Rebuild road block!
« Reply #16 on: December 16, 2014 - 08:30:37 PM »
400 horse from a street 340 is relatively easy, it involves a good intake, reasonable sized cam, headers and exhaust.

Eddy Rpm air gap with 750 cfm carb annular booster preferable air cleaner with a 14x4 air filter for zero restriction
cam shaft with approximately .5 inch and 265-275 intake duration
1 5/8 headers with 2.5 inch exhaust H-pipe / X-pipe is mandatory
9.5-1 compression 2.02/1.60 valves w/ 3 angle valve job
This should get between 365-390 horse, add some cylinder head porting , some intake porting and gasket matching, 400 is easy mode, with enough vacuum to run power brakes. However, if you are trying to maintain a totally factory appearance 350 is a more realistic number. Than your talking extrude honing the intake and exhaust manifolds, head work, etc.
The price that guy quoted you is stupid high, I just help a friend do a 392 striker w/rhs heads and efi for less lol.


Offline moper

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Re: 340 Rebuild road block!
« Reply #17 on: December 19, 2014 - 05:32:10 PM »

The shop is stoned just for what they charged you... Without knowing the parts list the price of $8-9K for walking in with a core running 340 and walking out with an all new, dyno'd 340 is on par with a good shop these days.  But - if they are reusing heads, crank, rods, tin, etc then it's robbery. 400hp is as was mentioned - average machien work, decent pistons, a good valve job, a camshaft, and headers.
If you don't mind me asking - what made the earlier rebuild "junk"?