Alternator question??

[1970 RT Challenger 1970]

Nice Diagram

[ShelbyDogg]

The only way to make THAT alternator work is to use the conversion "blue" voltage regulator for the pre-1970 alternators, when switching to electronic ignition.  Yours has a ground tab that can not be modified. That means that you have to use the other voltage regulator that supplies a regulated 12 volts to the single field alternator, to control it's output.

If I were you, I would try different alternators till you find on that has the fields clocked to the other side.

[jmartin99]

Chryco,
    So if I add a short wire and secure it under the screw at the 9 o'clock position and put a male spade terminal on the end of it and plug it into the green wire, it should work?

   Thanks!

Jeff 

[Chryco Psycho]

I have not done this & I do not have one here to take apart + Rob says it cannot be done but if you can isolate the grounded terminal so it is not grounded to thew case & add a spade terminal it could possibly be made to work , the 70 alt is exactly the same design as the 69 style you have but has 2 spade terminals on the back

[ShelbyDogg]

I have that same alternator in my stash of "spares". Hoarders call stuff "spares" my wife calls it "JUNK". Just can't throw away an early, probably good alternator, that I'll NEVER use.

That field brush is screwed right to the case casting. No terminal isolator at all like some of the older ones I've seen that you can unground and put a regular field brush and isolator on.

Maybe you can post a pic and let us see what your aluminum head is hitting?  Others here have used aluminum heads and have made them work.