removing PS Gear box... ROLL PIN ?? ARRRGH ! (help?)

[Robb]

Removing the old PS gearbox from the 70 CHallenger today.     

   


Found this on the net about Removing a Mopar Power steering gear box, disconnecting it from the steering column coupling, and it describes what I have:

""columns are attached to the box with a coupling with a roll pin in the center that is driven out of the coupling, otherwise the same. I have seen these, its just a big roll pin thru the middle, you'll see it if its there""

Im lucky the motor is still out of the engine bay so I have plenty of room to attack this.   

That roll pin isnt budging for NOTHING.     Ive really been pounding it, from both sides even.    :madvibe: :pissed:
I even started to try to drill it out  but dannnnnnnggg thats some slow goin'

Whats the trick to getting that sucker OUT ?      ::  ::  :: 
Why would it be lodged in so fricken tight ?


 ::
Oh yeah....   how sloppy should the Pitman arm end connector be to the center link ?    Wet Noodle  or Firm  ?

thanks in advance !

[Btch n Blue]

Ok Robb... this is easy....

First off, you're going to need a punch set. Find a punch that just fits inside the roll pin, then go one size bigger! Squirt some PB Blaster on it, and pound away... that roll pin WILL come out!! :thumbs:

As far as the pitman arm... I'm not sure what you mean... if it moves, but the gear box doesn't move, then that's no good... mine has play and likes to move around the road a little, but it's nothing too severe... if you're really worried, I'd look into a firm feel box while you're pulling!!

Hope that helps!

[Robb]

Thanks for the quick response BnB.

I just undid the steering column from the inside, thinking it might help,   :dontknow:  hope it does.  Will soak in some penetrating fluid over nite but its looks to be in pretty decent condition, no rust that I can see.

Ill keep pounding away, currenly Im surprised sparks arent flying Im hitting it so hard    Been whaling on it.  WIll try a bigger punch too.

Thanks for the confirmation that there wasnt something else I was supposed to have undone first.


SO.... Actually FirmFeel box is supposed to be here on ~Wednesday, just getting started early (in case I run into any problems  "cough-cough-cough" haha

I have the pitman arm disengaged from the box already, it was firm and solid laterally,
The greasable boot end of the pitman arm (the non toothed end) is the where its limp like a wet noodle, floppy feeling like its dangling.   I realise its supposed to have some movement but just thought Id check with you guys.   I replaced a Idler arm last year that was totally shot Vertically, and it fixed most of a vibration issue Id been gitting.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Robb,
  I took my roll pin out in the poor man's manner. I had an extra one of those T-type valve cover holders. I found that the threaded end was the perfect size to knock that roll pin out. I couldn't believe how easily it came out. I was beating it to death with everything before that too. Good luck.

  Mike

[Mopar73340]

Yeah Robb, that roll pin can be a bi*ch to get out, I had to pond on one pretty hard in the junkyard a few years ago but it finally let loose. Just do like said above and make sure the punch fits. I'd say your pitman arm needs replaced. Sounds like cheap insurance to replace it now.

[Robb]

ITS OUT !

Thanks again guys, my main concern was that maybe there was something else Also holding it in and I was going to make things worse.
Great to have you guys as a Sanity Check and source of Action Recommendation  :beer: :patriot:


MEK:  IIRC those are 1/4 in bolts.   I had one laying around and decided to give it a whack.  F'd up the bolt, no roll pin budge.

Went to Hardware strore this morning and Tried the HD  1/4" Pin punch and managed to get in some serious whacks and nothing budged.  Started F'ing up the pin punch.

In the tool drawer of lost and misfit tools, I had a punch of some kind that looked a little like a small Railroad Spike.  The end was tapered and I was nervous about driving it in and spreading the pin tighter.   I decided to give it a try as I had nothing left to lose.
This was the ticket.  Took about 15 whacks but I got the pin to move about an 1/8 of an inch, as far as the big punch would allow.  JOY AT LAST !  :thumbs:

Then the Pin punch worked from there  another 10 whacks and finally got loose.   :worship:  :worship:  :worship:  :worship:  :worship:


I dont think Ive ever given a car part that much "medievel brutality", ever.    :spank: :ack: :boxer:    I might have to frame that pin and hang it on the garage wall.  BTW, after getting the pin out I inspected how much affect 1/2 hour of drilling with a 3/16 bit made...  another 20 hours and I might have been successful there.  :outtahere:


So in closing,    Solid/Drift punch with a BFH,   then 1/4 inch HD Pin Punch with a BFH.    Watch pin finally fall out.

[Mopar73340]

 :thumbs: glad things worked out Robb...

[Btch n Blue]

Good to hear you got it out... also glad I won't have to go through the troubles of a rusty one again!! :thumbs:

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Robb,
  Great job!!!  :thumbs: The amazing thing is how easiliy it will go back in... it makes you wonder why it's so hard to get out.  :dontknow:

  Mike

[johnny-d]

Next time use an air hammer  I pounded for over an hour before remembering that I had one, then it came out w/in 15 seconds . . .

[Robb]

Air tools make good things come to life.    Next time Im at Harbor Freight Ill have to see what they have.    I was wishing I had the Air Gasket scraper 2 weeks ago.