Center link rubbing oil pan

[Kevin71]

I put a 522 cu crate motor in a 71 challlenger.  I purchased a mildon oil pan for it.  I also put in Tremec 5 speed at the same time.  I didn't cut the floor board but I did massage the hell out of it with a sledge hammer.  I have push the tail of the tremec up about a inch to get the drive line angle to 3 degrees down.  The center link rubs the oil pan.  American Power train said maybe the engine is sitting to low.  Schumaker said to check the oil pan that stock oil pan, which mine is supposed to be, could be stock for a charger or some other model and could be deeper thereby rubbing the center link steering link.  The only other cure seems to be shimming the steering gear box to push the pitman arm down to allow for enough room.  Has anyone ever run into something like this?  The motor is our right now at Carolina Motors getting rebuilt.  I would like to try to solve this while it is out.

[Denison636]

On my small block I did. Tranny was down to much. I had to raise it to clear my drag link.

[Katfish]

Can't help, but I have same issue with a 340 that I added a 518 tranny to.  It's not too bad, I can probably live with it.
But I was thinking about shimming the pitman arm and idler arms when I replace them.

Don't see why you couldn't add an 1/8" washer if you don't need much? 
But I would think you need to do both sides and not just the steering box?

[Kevin71]

How do you do the other side.  It is a tab on the K frame with a bolt thru the arm.  Could this have been bent up in a accident causing it to be higher and how would you know.  They say it has to be level or you have steering problems. bump steer I think

[brads70]

This might help?

[HP2]

Factory tolerances on these cars was loose at best. It is not uncommon to see some critical dimensions that vary by .125. If either of your mounts is 1/8" off, you have a windage tray to drop the pan further, and an engine mount pedestal is off an 1/8", now everything will rub.

I'd recommend you  check dimensions as provided by Brad's diagram. If you need to move the idler down, then file or grind like shown, and weld an oversized washer into place to lock the location down.

Another possible/additional solution is to shim the engine mounts up .125 to lift the engine up a bit.

[anlauto]

YES....I put a 383 in a Challenger with a Tremec 5spd. I supplied the engine builder with the factory 402 oil pan but he insisted in using a Mildon oil pan which he claimed was the exact replacement for a 440+6 or Hemi so it will fit no problem.

I did cut the floor and I did raise the tranny way up to get the correct angle and it was almost impossible to get comfortable clearance between the oil pan and center link. I ended up denting the oil pan (nicely)...

Mildon must be falsely advertising  these pans cause they are a lot taller in the low area between the center link there's no way to get clearance 

[73restomod]

I don't think its and oil pan issue. I have a 440 big block milodon road race oil pan and I dropped my motor down a 1" and back 1 3/8". I still have an inch between the center-link and oil pan.

[anlauto]

You're most likely using a different pan 

[73restomod]

It's the same depth as a factory hemi pan, maybe their road race pans are made to more exacting standards? I know most of the road race stuff is built by hand to order, but the other common factor I'm seeing is the Tremec trans? Of course I have a T-56 in my car, but I built it all to this particular car, and whenever some one talks of one size fits all kits (even if its all for the same chassis) I tend to cringe a bit.

[Kevin71]

Well I have put this off for awhile waiting on  my engine to get back.  Well I have it in and the company that rebuilt it put a different oil pan on it.  They said it's same one that they use on all there 440's and no one has ever told them there was a problem with it rubbing.  Well it's rubbing my center link.  I have pushed the tremec up as far as it will go.  It has a 5 degree downward tilt The drive shaft has a .5 or half a degree upward and the rear end has a 4.8 degree downward tilt.  Even if I cut the floor board it doesn't look like the trans is going up any further due to the shifter bracket starting to hit the frame part of the tunnel.  Either I get a different oil pan or make the the aforementioned adjustments to the steering gear box and the passenger side center link mount.  Can you change the oil pan in the car and the oil pick up with out pulling the engine?

[Chryco Psycho]

yes you can swap the pan & pickup in the car without removing the engine , I would shim the steering down first