Author Topic: Sheet Metal Advise  (Read 5742 times)

Offline E-Body Products

  • E-Body Products
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1016
  • American Jobs Are Our Children's Future!
    • E-BODY PRODUCTS
Re: Sheet Metal Advise
« Reply #15 on: April 20, 2015 - 06:16:02 AM »

Would also be nice if you could put it on some kind of jig.

A frame jig would be best.


E-Body Products
www.ebodyproducts.com
606-481-9014




Offline E-Body Products

  • E-Body Products
  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 1016
  • American Jobs Are Our Children's Future!
    • E-BODY PRODUCTS
Sheet Metal Advise
« Reply #16 on: April 20, 2015 - 07:09:55 PM »
I don't want to be contradictory, but you had the right idea when you said to put the stands under the diff and frt cntrl arms. That loads the body the way the car will be when it's on it's wheels. You can put the stands where you want, but don't expect the car to follow your idea of where it wants to carry it's weight. Disassembling the whole car IS the best way to totally restore it, but unless that's your plan and you've budgeted the time and money, I'd give it a second thought. At the end of the day, your car, your decision. Good luck  :cheers:


Does anyone else have comments on this?  I didn't do this with my car, but my car needed everything replaced so I couldn't leave the rear suspension in place. I figured by having the weight off of the rear with all suspension removed would create less flex. Thoughts?  My car turned out fine, but don't want to give the wrong advice.


E-Body Products
www.ebodyproducts.com
606-481-9014

Offline 1 Wild R/T

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 4594
Re: Sheet Metal Advise
« Reply #17 on: April 21, 2015 - 11:09:04 AM »
FWIW I know of two E bodies done in the 90's that had quarters hung with the weight on the suspension... Both had serious issues because things moved... My preferred method is a process using eight jack stands & shims... I also use a 6' level & a  frame chart...I position a jack stand at each end of each frame rail,  I shim those locations from side to side  to get them truly level....  Then i use the frame chart the level & a couple 9" drop rods to set elevation of the rails front to rear... Done it this way for many years & I've never had an issue...

Kind of a poor mans frame jig...
JS27N0B 70 Challenger R/T Convertible  FJ5 Sublime, Show Poodle w/90,000 miles since resto
WS27L8G 68 Coronet R/T Convertible  PP1 Bright Red, Project
RM21H9E 69 Road Runner Coupe R4 Performance Red, Sold...
5H21C  65 Falcon 2 dr Wagon... Dog Hauler...

Offline jimynick

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 4512
Re: Sheet Metal Advise
« Reply #18 on: April 21, 2015 - 10:54:24 PM »
You won't get any argument from me if that's the way you do it. It's called a datum line and the old frame spec books called for one. If you're capable and have the gear, it's the way to go, shy of having a true bench with either dedicated fixtures or a computerized system like a Genesis to measure. Most guys do this in their garage and don't have any of this ability. You may drive yourself nuts striving for perfection in these cars, as they were built in a slapdash fashion in the day and not at all like the tolerances used today. Anyways, good luck and as mentioned, do it the way you want to.  :cheers: