Author Topic: replacing head gaskets  (Read 4694 times)

Offline Scat Pack Fever

  • Mopars Rule!!!!!!!! Always Have, Always Will
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 613
  • Chrysler did it best!
replacing head gaskets
« on: April 20, 2015 - 07:11:47 PM »
Hello all,

I am going to replace the head gaskets on my 360. I am seeing milky liquid in my oil. Plus my engine isn't running right. Can I replace them with out pulling the engine? I have found a few gasket sets on ebay that have intake, head, and other gaskets as a set including valve guide seals. Is there one brand better than the other? I read up on keeping the push rods in order and being able to use the old bolts. Is there anything else I should know other thn the basics?

Thanks!




Offline cudabob496

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 8024
Re: replacing head gaskets
« Reply #1 on: April 20, 2015 - 07:30:35 PM »
I'd buy from Summit.
Great return policy, and quality parts.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline blown motor

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3013
Re: replacing head gaskets
« Reply #2 on: April 20, 2015 - 07:54:10 PM »
I've never done it but I'm sure you can do it without pulling the engine.
In search of the eternal buzz!

Offline Scat Pack Fever

  • Mopars Rule!!!!!!!! Always Have, Always Will
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 613
  • Chrysler did it best!
Re: replacing head gaskets
« Reply #3 on: April 20, 2015 - 08:00:48 PM »
I'd buy from Summit.
Great return policy, and quality parts.

Do you know if they take pay pal?

Offline bandt

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 434
Re: replacing head gaskets
« Reply #4 on: April 20, 2015 - 08:21:50 PM »
Can definitely do head gaskets in the car.
If it is stock engine Fel-pros are good gaskets and available anywhere. If you can get a top end gasket set it will save you a few bucks.


Brian

Offline Strawdawg

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 2209
    • Vortex Buicks
Re: replacing head gaskets
« Reply #5 on: April 21, 2015 - 12:07:19 AM »
It does not take very long for oil contaminated by antifreeze to do a number on the bearings.  I hope you have drained it and did not keep trying to run it.

Offline cudabob496

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 8024
Re: replacing head gaskets
« Reply #6 on: April 21, 2015 - 02:06:03 AM »
Do you know if they take pay pal?

Yes, they do.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline cudabob496

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 8024
Re: replacing head gaskets
« Reply #7 on: April 21, 2015 - 02:07:40 AM »
May be more than gaskets! Are heads warped?
How else can oil get contaminated?
How else is your engine "not running right"?
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline Denison636

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 352
Re: replacing head gaskets
« Reply #8 on: April 21, 2015 - 02:11:38 AM »
Fel-Pro also makes race gaskets and that is there good stuff.
Make sure after you clean up the block to take a straight edge to it and to your heads to see if a gasket will seal them back up. I always take filler gauges to see where things are at under the straight edge.
Its just a little 340 with a miss

Offline Chryco Psycho

  • Administrator
  • C-C.com Guru
  • *****
  • Posts: 36620
  • 70 Challenger R/T SE 70 tube Chassis Cuda now sold
Re: replacing head gaskets
« Reply #9 on: April 21, 2015 - 12:21:14 PM »
Fel Pro
 Check for cracks if the problem is not obvious .
 Can be done in the car . Exhaust is the worst to get to the lower head bolts . you could swap to better 308 castings

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline Scat Pack Fever

  • Mopars Rule!!!!!!!! Always Have, Always Will
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 613
  • Chrysler did it best!
Re: replacing head gaskets
« Reply #10 on: April 21, 2015 - 09:09:27 PM »
May be more than gaskets! Are heads warped?
How else can oil get contaminated?
How else is your engine "not running right"?

I am going to inspect the heads when I have them off.  I cant seem to get the engine to run smooth. It has a shake to it. I have played around with the timing and carb settings. I bought the engine out of a ram charger for $300 so I figure its time to check it out. Who knows what the valves look like or if I have a crack in the head or it's warped.

Offline Scat Pack Fever

  • Mopars Rule!!!!!!!! Always Have, Always Will
  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 613
  • Chrysler did it best!
Re: replacing head gaskets
« Reply #11 on: April 21, 2015 - 09:12:10 PM »
It does not take very long for oil contaminated by antifreeze to do a number on the bearings.  I hope you have drained it and did not keep trying to run it.

Havent drained it yet but I will soon. Good advice!!! I haven't even started it much since I found that let alone drive it.

Offline jimynick

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 4512
Re: replacing head gaskets
« Reply #12 on: April 21, 2015 - 10:04:03 PM »
You got some good advice there. There's a reason the gasket went and making sure the block/head interface is right on the money will prevent having to do it again- soon. Old rule of thumb was NO more than .003" warpage and use a good straight edge or better yet, take the heads to a good machine shop and have them check 'em or flycut them a few thou and then you can feel better. Remember the basics- cover the valley and stuff some rags in the cylinders while you're cleaning off the old gaskets from the block. If you have access to compressed air, a whizzy wheel and surface treatment discs make quick work of a tiresome job. If you don't pull the pan off, at the least I'd run the engine until it got up to temp (this is all after you've reassembled it) and then dump the new oil and filter and reload it with an eye towards flushing the coolant out asap. Good luck