Broken exhaust manifold stud advice needed

['Cuda Hunter]

So I broke an exhaust stud off in the head while removing manifolds.   400 block on a stand in the garage.
Broke off just inside of the hole.
I drilled the hole and used a small extractor to remove the broken stud. 
Unfortunately I broke the extractor inside of the broken stud. 
I've tried drilling into the extractor but it is hard as hell.

Any advice how to get this stud out?   

Weld another stud on it?  In the hole?                 Take it to a machine shop ? 

[brads70]

Carbide burr in a die grinder if your careful/steady. 
As a last resort set it up in a mill , use carbide tooling (endmill or center drill, spade drill, etc..)  If you lived closer I'd do it for you. I've used carbide tipped masonry drills to drill out taps before, lots of rpm's, sharpen the carbide just right and a solid set up.
No such thing as can't! 

['Cuda Hunter]

I've got a carbide burred die grinder.  I'll try that. 
I also have some carbide masonry bits that are small enough for this.  Never would have thought of those. 
I do have a drill press so I could use that if I need to take the head off.

I'm no can'ter.  I'll try just about anything. 

[brads70]

I've got a carbide burred die grinder.  I'll try that. 
I also have some carbide masonry bits that are small enough for this.  Never would have thought of those. 
I do have a drill press so I could use that if I need to take the head off.

I'm no can'ter.  I'll try just about anything.

With the masonry drill you would need a rock steady set up ( not by hand in a drill)  and LOTS of rpm's  like 2000 and constant pressure.
Sometimes heat and a common birthday candle have worked. Melt the wax around the stud/hole. The idea is it seeps down via the heat. Works on rusty bolts....

[blown motor]

If the stud is at the surface, centre a nut on it and weld it. The heat will loosen the stud and then you can put a wrench on it.

[cudabob496]

I'd find a good machine shop

[dutch]

any idea how deep that bit is in there? If not too deep you could try breaking it up into smaller pieces hitting it with a narrow centre punch and use air to blow out the remains. If that doesn`t work I`d take the head off and use a mill and not a drill press.

[AussieMark]

If you have a MIG or TIG welder you can bit by bit add length to the ezy out and when it is long enough grip the weld with a part of vise grips and remove the ezy out from the stud. Another way if you drilled right through the stud you may be able to break the ezy out up by hitting it with a centre punch some pieces will come out the top and the rest will go to the bottom of the hole and allow you to get the next size drill bit in there. With holes that go to water you wont be able to use a Helicoil or it will leak you will have to try and save the original thread or use a Time-sert these use the same tap as a Helicoil but will seal water if you use Loctite when you install it.

['Cuda Hunter]

There shouldn't be too much of the easy out still in the hole.  I'll try breaking it up before a burr grinder. 
I did drill all the way through the broken stud, penetration greased it and tried to remove it. 
I was quite surprised that it didn't budge.  I'm going to try my best to save the original threads.

I might have to take it to a machine shop if it doesn't come out eventually.  I really don't want to time-sert the hole.

Another set of head gaskets. 

[dpcd67]

Your picture absolutely makes me ill.  I can't stand snakes and that is very unsettling.
Anyway,  I always said, easy outs, aren't.
I drill out the old bolts and use a tap to re-thread them, which removes the rest of the bolt.  I know , too late for that now; so take it to a machine shop that can EDM it out. And save the original threads.

[jimynick]

I don't see how you'll be able to break the easyout, since the stud is now bottomless and the body is jammed in the broken stud- no place for it to move to shatter. I'd put the aforementioned nut over the hole and mig it to the stud/easyout stub. Then I'd take a cutting tip on a gas torch and heat the immediate 1/2" area around the stud red hot and put a socket on that nut and see what you get-out. If you want to get really fancy, heat it and quench it with water before the final heat. Old blacksmiths never die, they just buy old Mopars. Just my 

[dutch]

. Old blacksmiths never die, they just buy old Mopars. Just my 

...or just sell `em...   

I agree.  if there`s no bottom it will probably not break up.
   just wondering.... what if you used a plasmacutter?  may take a few tips to pierce it, but I bet you could get rid of the ez out that way.      anyone try this?

[73440]

Your picture absolutely makes me ill.  I can't stand snakes and that is very unsettling.
Anyway,  I always said, easy outs, aren't.
I drill out the old bolts and use a tap to re-thread them, which removes the rest of the bolt.  I know , too late for that now; so take it to a machine shop that can EDM it out. And save the original threads.

EDM discussion.
http://www.modelenginenews.org/meng/edm/index.html

[brads70]

EDM discussion.
http://www.modelenginenews.org/meng/edm/index.html

Overkill, I've used EDM's for years, the good thing with them was that you could set it up and go do something else while it worked. Easy to do on a mill, ten minute job.