rallye clock clicking

[droptail]

I've got my cluster out to repair the tach & clock.  I ordered the tach board from RTE, and was trying to see if I can get the clock to work.  I sprayed some contact cleaner, then dry lube thru the adjustment hole in the back, and its running, except it clicks every 60s or so.  Sounds like the clock spring skipping or something.  Any ideas? 
Apparently this runs off 12V, not 5. 
Anyone bend the tabs to access the works?

Thanks

[JayBee]

That click you hear is normal. There's a relay that energizes when a spring winds down, then a pair of contacts contact and the relay energizes again pulling on the spring and starting the whole sequence over again. Don't get too optimistic you got lucky. Once it stopped working it's just a matter of time that it stops again. Those contacts get pitted preventing a good connection.

I've bent those tabs to get access and  file the contacts to get more live out of clocks. I don't recommend bending them too often, they'll get weak and snap off. I've also done the quartz conversion  so if your going to open it up do the conversion then. And yes, it runs on 12v. 

[blown motor]

My clock didn't work when I bought the car. I'm debating whether to spend money on it or just let it be. If I spend, do I buy a replacement or send mine away for renewal? How long can the car sit without the clock taking it's toll on the battery?

[JayBee]

I have no idea what places charge what for a "renewal". Repops are like $250.00 US. My car sits sometimes for 2 weeks with the clock running and it's no issue, however it's got the quartz movement if that makes any difference. The kits are only $80.00 US, why not give that a try.
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Quartz-Conversion-Clock-Repair-Kit-R-3035-with-Instructional-DVD-/371178968521?hash=item566bfd95c9&vxp=mtr

[Racer57]

If your clocks reset is off to side of the clock face instead of coming out from the face of the clock and it does not keep time very good play with the Reset. After setting the time, pull out on it and you might even turn it backwards to make sure that its not still engaged. The cable does not always retract like it should. Mine will keep perfect time, but it usually takes 3 -5 attempts with the reset to get it completely disengaged.

[droptail]

That click you hear is normal. There's a relay that energizes when a spring winds down, then a pair of contacts contact and the relay energizes again pulling on the spring and starting the whole sequence over again. Don't get too optimistic you got lucky. Once it stopped working it's just a matter of time that it stops again. Those contacts get pitted preventing a good connection.

I've bent those tabs to get access and  file the contacts to get more live out of clocks. I don't recommend bending them too often, they'll get weak and snap off. I've also done the quartz conversion  so if your going to open it up do the conversion then. And yes, it runs on 12v.

Thanks John, yest it stopped so I ordered up the quartz conversion kit from ISI for $79.
Not looking forward to messing with the rivets on the face, but don't seem to have a choice.

[JayBee]

You're welcome. Also, definitely have 2 people when you're dealing with the rivets. One to hold the clock very steady over something on the head of the rivets and someone to peen the supplied tubular rivets. I used a center punch first to spread the back open a bit and then a flat punch. I didn't have the instruction DVD, so I wonder what their method could be.