Valve cover gaskets

[Racer57]

I got tired of always fighting leaks with the factory steel covers and then my new cast ones. I finally bought some Moroso Perm-Align Valve Cover Gaskets ($40+) which have silicone sandwiching metal. I then used Prep-Sol on the cast covers and the head to clean everything until like new. Then I used black RTV on both sides of the gaskets.

By God theres no frikkin leaks now !!

[cudabob496]

Of all the places to have an oil leak, where there's zero oil pressure.
Bad design!!

The LS1 covers on my Trans Am never leak! Circular O-ring is embedded in the cover!

We could probably use at least two more valve cover bolts, on the down-low side!

[cv70chall]

Can I use Permatex Indian Head on the gasket to secure it to the valve cover?
Also, if I'm going to use studs and nuts to secure the valve covers, should I put a small amount of blue loc-tite on the studs before I screw them in to the head?

Thanks

[cudabob496]

Can I use Permatex Indian Head on the gasket to secure it to the valve cover?
Also, if I'm going to use studs and nuts to secure the valve covers, should I put a small amount of blue loc-tite on the studs before I screw them in to the head?

Thanks

why use studs? they are for heavy duty torquing/clamping.  Valve covers don't need a lot of high clamping force.
They just need level surfaces and a well postioned gasket.

[roadman5312]

why use studs? they are for heavy duty torquinclamping.  Valve covers don't need a lot of high clamping force.
They just need level surfaces and a well postioned gasket.
[/quote

I like using studs because you can have the gasket positioned on the head and sealed how you want it, then lay the vc on. 

[cudabob496]

why use studs? they are for heavy duty torquinclamping.  Valve covers don't need a lot of high clamping force.
They just need level surfaces and a well postioned gasket.
[/quote

I like using studs because you can have the gasket positioned on the head and sealed how you want it, then lay the vc on.

ok, so its not to torque down more, as that usually squishes out the gasket.
Your method sounds good, but having the gasket glued/tacked into the valve cover may be better.
But, whatever works! I can see your method possibly not allowing the valve cover to fully seal/seat against the gasket,
because the gasket might not be in the proper shape/position.

[jhaag]

cv70...To answer YOUR questions, yes you can use indian head on your gaskets, depending on what they are made of. Some of the gaskets made today will not play nice with shellac. Yes you can use blue Loctite on the studs, but really not necessary.

[roadman5312]

As I search around for gaskets for the Hemi it looks like I'm limited to cork/rubber, composit with steel core, or the Cometic Aramid Fiber. Anyone use the Cometics ?   

[cudabob496]

Moroso's are highly recommended

[Mopar Mitch]

Just remember:  Rubber gaskets are best installed DRY.. no chemical whatsoever!   Molded Silicone gaskets MUST be installed DRY.   If you put any adhesive on it, you may as well put grease or vasoline on it so that it'll slip OUT of position quicker... and you'll ne doing it again.   DRY installations work best.

[Fred]

I put a set of the rubber mopar ones on this weekend under the new MP valve covers.  Put them on dry, no problem.  We'll see how they last.

[Mopar Mitch]

Another thing to remember and know:  Rubber does NOT compress... it DISTORTS upon getting squeezed down... clamp it too much and it will split apart.  Rubber is typically best clamped to ~30% of its thickness.  Newer rubber-gaskets have a clamp-load limiters (metal tabs or washers) at each bolt hole.. so that it limits the squeeze to avoid splitting.   Rubber gaskets are less forgiving to out-of-flat surface conditions.... FLATNESS is extremely critical for rubber gaskets to seal properly!

Cork-rubber gaskets will compress typically up to 50% max of its thickness.  CR gaskets are more forgiving to out-of-flat surface conditions.    You pay-for-what-you-get with CR gaskets... there is low cheap quality.. and high-quality.  The rubber within most CR gaskets is nitrile-rubber and only good towards ~250-300 max F degrees until the rubber begins to lose its qualities for long life.  Cheap CR gaskets will have plenty of porous openings within the cork granules (microscopes can determine this).

Name-brand mfgrs are what you want... avoid the off-brand or private-label packages (with private label contents.. you never know what's inside and they often vary their suppliers.. regardless of what the product is).

[cv70chall]

I'm going to us the Mr Gasket Ultra Seal Gaskets this time around. I had the Moroso Rubber/ Steel Core and they failed alongside the Aluminum Mope-Performance valve covers, so I went to steel/ chrome valve covers and the Moroso gaskets didn't even fit! (They were too long on the sides)
I'm sticking with Steel/ Chrome as they are less apt to flex/ distort with the heat, especially on the passenger side right next to that HP manifold.

[tman]

I think results vary from owner to owner.  I used Mr Gasket Ultra Seals on my stamped steel VC's 440.  For me, I have to change them every other year, passenger side only.  Im due to change it this year, but going to try the Superformance Carbon X ones.  Haven't installed yet.  My leak always start at the bolt at the bottom rear closest to the manifold.  Seems to ooze out of the bolt washer area.  Have not had to touch the driver side for years. 

[Mopar Mitch]

If and whenever there is chrome on the gasket flange... any gasket flange... scrape it off before you install the gasket/cover/casting.  Chrome surfaces welcome fluid leakage.