Mopar six pack style vs Ford type six pack style carbs

[javakm70cuda]

I am having an issue deciding in which direction to go with a six pack setup. I have two type of six pack options. One type I bought 15 years ago that a guy told me was used on a 440.

3457
List-4412-S

3537
List-7448

3537
List-7448

I should mention he did not say that it was original to the 440 though so who knows what they were for originally.

The other option I bought recently & they are off a 440

2839
List-4375

2889
List-4382

2889
List-4382

I bought the original mopar six pack carbs because I bought a   Base & fiberglass lid from Steve at www.hybrid-fiberglass-solutions.com & the ford style six pack did not fit the Base 2bbl holes. So I thought it was an issue with the carburetor's that I had because they were not original to the mopar setup. Well I was wrong because when I bought the original six pack carbs mentioned above they did not fit holes either.

So my question is this. Is there any pro's & cons between the two type of six pack. The Ford type are complete & the original style I need to dump money into to complete is the main issue. I wanted to ask this question on here before calling promax & dumping my money into the original style six pack carbs I have. I live in Canada & the Canadian dollar is not helping my stress level on buying anything in USD.

Thanks for your opinions in advance

If more pics are needed just let me know

[1 Wild R/T]

The Ford carbs are good but I don't think you can get the rear carb & the center carb to bolt to the manifold together... Ford uses three metering blocks which means the rear carb had to sit back further... Seems like my buddy tried to run the Ford carbs back in the 70's & it wouldn't fit...

If they will fit & your not concerned about correctness the Ford carbs are mechanical linkage, they all run accelerator pumps so they aren't the best of fuel economy.. But they do run strong on the old Fords they came on... Having metering blocks means jet changes are just like regular Holleys, no metering plates... 

BTW I didn't run the list numbers but you Ford carbs have Chevrolet linkage \\

Also whats wrong with you air cleaner? Steve's stuff is usually pretty good

OK now I did run the numbers, those carbs are not designed as tri power carbs, they are std two barrel replacement carbs that are still available new, they have a round air cleaner mount thats been cut off.... 

[javakm70cuda]

Thank you 1Wild R/T for your reply. Chev Linkage eh. Good to know. If the old carbs were created by a back yard mechanic they were detail oriented right down to the stamp numbers & epoxy in the areas. I have bolted the old carbs on my intake & they do fit without issue. I guess the main issue I had was cutting the base lid I just bought to fit & not knowing for sure how the carbs would preform on my engine.

I have attached some pics of the base showing the mopar sixpack carbs in holes. It is not a big deal to modify the base, but I thought the carb holes would only need minor modification. Other than that detail the base & lid are great. I would still recommend him to anyone.

[javakm70cuda]

So I made an order with promax for a baseplate & metering block. I have a question though. Would I only need to buy one baseplate or two. I have the original baseplates so I assume I will only need one base plate for the rear carb. I want to make sure because the order did not ship yet & I think I said two.

Thanks

[javakm70cuda]

So, I am still having fun with the six pack. Spoke with Ben on the phone over parts. Bought Carb kit($200), Fuel Bowls($175 for 3 quickfuel fuel bowls I figured out when they arrived) metering block & one base plate.  Called two days after placing order & Ben said yes you ordered Carb kit, fuel bowls, one base plate & a metering block. Waited four weeks for it to arrive to find out I received two base plates & no metering block. So I ordered the metering block + additional shipping & it took another week to arrive. Also had to mention to Ben that just because I bought an overpriced carb kit does not mean you do not send me the gaskets that are included in price with the base plate & metering block. He sent them to me in the end, but I should not have to ask for something I already bought included in deal. FUN FUN. Not sure why it took 4 weeks to receive what I purchased but anyways.

I called Steve over the air cleaner base & he said my carbs not fitting is normal. Better too small than too big. I will tweak the air cleaner base & be done with it.

My question is has anyone used Steve air cleaner base before & what do I use to hold down the air cleaner cover. As you can see from the picture it does not have the brackets to attach the cover & the cover does not line up with carb mounting holes.

I am getting really tired of the six pack decision. Too many problems & it is not like I am sticking to a budget buying these parts. I researched these parts to death & only heard good things. Live & Learn    

[1 Wild R/T]

I'm looking at your pictures & I see issues.. The Mopar carbs are hacked, the throttle shafts on the outboards are installed backwards, all three carbs need to face the same direction with the float bowls in front & the curved area of the airliner facing forward....

The reason the mechanical carbs fit is they don't have center hung floats....

You appear to be trying to do a sixpack low buck but sometimes that can backfire...

[Chryco Psycho]

I have the 3 mechanical carbs with the side floats on my 440 , no problem , these were an option through DC
 I prefer them as you can force them open with the pedal over waiting for vaccum in the center carb for the outboard to open up

[javakm70cuda]

What is the expression. "hindsight is always 20/20" I should of just used the mech carbs I had instead of thinking there was something wrong with setup.

The problem I am running into now is that the air cleaner base does not have anything on the base to hold down the lid & I was wondering if anyone has solved this issue before.


The mechanical carb I have did not fit the air cleaner base & I thought it "hey, it might be because they are not original 6 pack carbs". That is what started my journey. 

You are correct 1 Wild R/T that the throttle shafts were installed backwards(all fixed with new base plates). They were like that when I received them.

The issue with the air cleaner base is that the holes were not cut large enough to fit the holley carb. I will fix that issue, but I need a way to connect the air cleaner lid & at this point there is no brackets on air cleaner to do just that. The drilled holes in the air cleaner lid do not align with the outboard carb air cleaning mounting position for a air cleaner lid. I assume I will need a bracket to resolve this issue.

Has anyone run into this issue & resolved the issue?

I still might just use the mechanical carbs & shelf the original style until I get some bugs worked out. I read that the mechanical style sixpack setup has a little more kick to it, where as the vacuum style has a gradual feeling to it.
 

[1 Wild R/T]

Originally the same stud from the front & rear carbs passed through the stabilizer bracket on the air cleaner base then was used to secure the air cleaner lid... Shouldn't need any sort of bracket to attach the lid...  And honestly the air cleaner shouldn't need the stabilizer bracket on the base.. Most guys fab something up out of flat stock but it isn't really needed..

[brads70]

Here is what I did if it gives you any idea's? 

[rUNCHARGER]

Yikes! Well at this point you must have a 4 bbl aircleaner lid not a six pack lid. What most guys do is make an aircleaner stud out of ready rod. You can screw it into the outboard carbs then put s-bends into the ready rod so it lines up with the aircleaner lid holes. No need for the stabilizer bars.
I myself really prefer the mechanical carbs as well, they are very responsive with the 3 accelerator pumps and easy to jet. You're going down the vacuum road now though and that's fine too.

Sheldon