Ideals on mounting battery in trunk??

[chally426]

I have a 6.1 six speed in a 71 Cuda convertible, looking to mount the battery in the trunk and any ideals.
I have the hot wire engine and computer system.
Ideals on running wires inside the car?
I've heard of some guys using ford solenoid's so the main cable would only be hot for safety, is this even needed??
Also, what about power distribution blocks??

Thanks...

[72bluNblu]

This is a schematic I made up when I relocated the battery to the trunk of my Duster. You do want to run a continuous duty solenoid, because you don't want that main cable hot all the time. Also, the Ford solenoids are not CDR's like what should be used. Using the CDR up front allows you to run all of your power items off of it if you so choose, instead of tying them into the main harness. This is set up for a regular mopar alternator with an external regulator, it would be a little different for a 1 wire (although that would be easier!). This also covers NHRA safety specs for track use if you include a handle to work the cut off manually from the outside of the car. When the cut-off is thrown, there will be no hot leads anywhere outside of the trunk.



I used this cut off switch (moroso 74102)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74102/overview/

This continuous duty relay (moroso 74107)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74107/overview/

And this battery relocation kit. I needed a couple small lengths of battery cable to make it work, but that will depend on where you put everything. The long length in the kit was enough to run from the switch to the starter, but not long enough to have "extra" to use for the starter to starter solenoid, solenoid to CDR, or cut-off to the battery.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1231-k/overview/

[chally426]

I think mine has to be powered full time due to the computer....

[72bluNblu]

Right.

I misspoke, you still carry power on the battery line, but that should be 1 gauge cable. The problem other methods have is they run the alternator power back to the cut-off switch with a small diameter wire. This one doesn't, everything is run to the CDR. The battery recharges as normal, and the battery cable stays hot. But the alternator line is run off the CDR, and while the alternator can be isolated through the cut off the power isn't run through it all the time.

Wiring isn't my strong suite, I did a lot of consultation with a gentleman far more versed in it than I am to make the diagram. I was just better at making the diagram than he was.

[jordan]

I put my battery in the trunk.  I initially ran 0 gauge wire from the local farm store.  I had lots of problems with voltage drop during cranking on start up.  I found my problem to be not enough strands in the cable.  I switch out to welders cable of 00 gauge (larger) with a LOT more strands of wire.  Voltage drop was greatly reduced.  Strand count is as important as diameter. 

I ran  my cable through the trunk along the quarter, came through the rear interior panel at the floor pan, and out of the interior in the floor plug just behind the passenger seat, along the frame to the engine compartment, and along the firewall, to the starter.  I don't know if it right, but it isn't shorted, or burning on anything.  If you plan on racing, some organizations have requirements, so follow their rules. 

I did the alternator/ammeter bypass at the same time. 

[mopar jack]

If you decide to race it with a battery in the trunk you might need to isolate the trunk from the pass compartment with sheet metal.

[72bluNblu]

If you decide to race it with a battery in the trunk you might need to isolate the trunk from the pass compartment with sheet metal.

Only if the battery isn't in a box and only if the box isn't vented.