Questions installing new tie rods

[KillerBee]

Next on the list is putting the new tie rods together and installing.

Same dilemma as my son trying to be helpful removed the original tie rod setups without marking the driver or passenger side.

So in measuring the original tie rods one side is 1/2" longer than the other...got the new tie rod setups adjusted to the same lengths, any suggestions on which side to install the longer tie rod set or is it a toss up?

I've read it doesn't matter which way you install the right and left tie rod ends?

Thanks.

[anlauto]

They should be equal or close to equal length, but it doesn't matter which one goes where. You'll just turn them towards the back to make them longer or towards the front 

[Mpdlawdog]

I had a similar question...pst told me the outters turn to the right...inners to the left

[Chryco Psycho]

I have always installed them left thread inner & right thread outer , but it really makes no difference , the lengths should be very close to equal , if not something is off , the master spline do rthe steering wheel should be at 12 oclock , there is an alignment between the steering box coupler & steering shaft  , there is a small hole in the steering shaft which should be on the same side as the notch in the coupler  , also but the coupler can be assembled 180* out, the steering wheel can be installed in 3 positions on the can so it could be off 120* , basically you should center the steering box , then the coupler & shaft & the steering wheel , if it still is not lined up right you could have a bent lower ball joint arm or ...

[KillerBee]

Thanks for the info guys.

The more I think about it......it's not going to matter much trying to match the new tie rod setup lenght to the old ones as everything has been replaced from the old manual steering setup.
New rebuilt power steering column, new rebuilt power steering box, new QA1 upper control arms, all new ball joints, tie rods and PST adjusters etc.

When I picked up the new Steer n Gear PS box they installed my new pittman arm for me and told me the box was already centered.
They told me not to move the steering box and pittman arm and move/adjust the tie rods in or out to mount to the center link. 

I did a quick mock up with the coupler on the column, the crush can, steering wheel and the steering box and everything looked lined up and correct.
Now hopefully everything installs good.

So a few more questions:

Should I use any grease or lubricant on the steering box splines when the coupler goes on?

I'm going to try and adjust the tie rods by measuring the distance between the center of the front tires, (front and back)
Should, and by how much should the front of the tires be closer together than the back of the tires to try and get it close to aligned? Obviously I'm going to get the car aligned ASAP once it's running/driving.

Hoping to get the wife's car back to rolling/steering again so I can start on the engine compartment brake lines, master cylinder and new wiring harness.
 
Would be great to get the wife driving her car this spring.

Thanks.

[Chryco Psycho]

I would use anti-sieze on the splines before assy .
 you can do you own alignment & generally it will steer better than an alignment shop will set it up .
 set the upper control arms with the front adjuster all the way outward & the rear all the way inward this will max the castor , you can tweak this adjustment to get the front tires slightly inward at the top , use a level across the rim to do this on level ground . Last set the toe in measuring the same point on the tire on the front & rear to 1/16" less in front , you now have the best alignment possible using stock components .
Of course you have the QA1 Upper arms so adjusting castor will be more difficult & changing castor  & ride height will change toe in too .

[KillerBee]

That's the way I adjusted the upper control arms after seeing the way the offset bushing from Moog work in the stock upper control arms.

Did some more tinkering tonight, installed the new idler arm that went easy then did battle trying to remove the original lower bump stops from the lower control arm, of course rusty nuts locked up and were spinning the bump stop
Finally used big vice grips to hold the bump stop and broke the studs off.

The old idler arm looks original and is staged for the scrap pile, is it worth saving to anyone?