Suspension issue with headers

[DMZ73]

Alright, I've posted this on Facebook, and want to get the pulse from the group here.
I have a set of cyclone headers that I bought  about 9 years ago. I port matched them the the exhaust ports, did some cleanup on them, then had them ceramic coated.
I replaced every part of my front suspension that was old/worn. New end links, new ball joints, every new bushing(rubber) you could throw at the car. New idler arm bushings. I can't recall if I replaced the steering pitman arm at the time or not..
Rebuilt the steering box.

I had a transmission issue, and the problem found it's way to the engine mount, and I ended up replacing the engine mounts. (Rubber)

I noticed that the drag link was hitting/rubbing across the drag link. In fact, it was so bad, it wore through it!!
In park/rest on the ground- I have plenty of clearance.  On turn, I have plenty of clearance- with jounce, some.
I'm thinking that with jounce/compression and load up of engine I get contact.

Since I already have money in my headers, I figured I would cut out the damaged area, weld in a new half moon cylinder, clean it up and have the header re-coated.

I am also going to replace the pitman arm and the idler arm.

My only other thought as to how this happened-
The upper control arms had limited thread. I detect a knock in the upper control arm at braking condition. I'm wondering if the upper ball joints came out of the threaded seat..
Either way, I'm going to replace the upper control arms and upper control arm ball joints...

Anyone ever have a similar experience?


Let me know!

Dan


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[brads70]

My drag link ( actually it was the tie rod I think)  was also hitting the header. To fix it I simply got out the air chisel with a modified ball nosed blunt end and made the required clearance.

[mopardave]

Dan.

if you need the upper arms LMk as I have plenty in stock, and have a good guy price for you. I also should have the idler and pitman.

http://www.rosevillemoparts.com/product_info.php/p/upper-control-arm-assembly-pair-66-72-b-70-74-e/products_id/7567

[DMZ73]

Dave- it's always great to hear from you. Ever see this before?
I'm in for the idler and pitman. I have been on the fence about the stock UCAs vs the aftermarket QA1s. I've hear discriminating views on each.
I know you always treat me well and offer sound advice. What's your take on the interference?



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[brads70]

When you go to install your new idler arm you can adjust the height by doing this.



This is assuming your mounts are all good. You can also shim up the motor mount on one or both sides. I had to do this to get my headers to fit .

[HP2]

I hate to say it, but ditch the headers. Cyclones aren't a real high end brand and while you picture doesn't show the overall configuration, it does appear you have the set with the three tubes that wrap under the drag link. One of the worse designs ever made.

If you going to patch and recoat, you might as well buy some new ones.

The knocking you hear probably isn't ball joint related and combined with the wear spot and clearance while static, is somewhere else. If it is thunking while braking, I'd look at the strut rod and bushings first. Are your motor mounts still good and not torn? I'd also check the idler bushing again. I've had several of those fail ahead of other bushings.

BTW, do you have a grease zerk sticking out of that tie rod end? If so, get rid of it.

[TelisSE440]

I hate to say it, but ditch the headers. Cyclones aren't a real high end brand and while you picture doesn't show the overall configuration, it does appear you have the set with the three tubes that wrap under the drag link. One of the worse designs ever made.

If you going to patch and recoat, you might as well buy some new ones.

The knocking you hear probably isn't ball joint related and combined with the wear spot and clearance while static, is somewhere else. If it is thunking while braking, I'd look at the strut rod and bushings first. Are your motor mounts still good and not torn? I'd also check the idler bushing again. I've had several of those fail ahead of other bushings.

BTW, do you have a grease zerk sticking out of that tie rod end? If so, get rid of it.

I would change them too... There are very good headers with nice clearance.

[DMZ73]

I have new motor mounts in the car. All the suspension is new. New struts, new bushings and ball joints are still new. The pitman arm castle nut and cotter pin are the culprits for the physical wear on the header. The tie rod ends do not have zerk fittings in the way.
Having to re coat my headers will run around 150 max. New headers will cost me around 650.
Long term I totally agree with you- I'll eventually do the headers. Unfortunately I don't have the coin to pop for those right now. I have a transmission to rebuild..



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[dodj]

I hate to say it, but ditch the headers.

I had a set of headers with the same design when I had a small block. I wore through that area too. Not initially, just after the first un-noticed bump in the road. Those three tubes that go under the drag link, being the lowest point, are your skid plate. They get bent fast. I understand your $ reasoning, but I fear it will prove to be $150 wasted.