Author Topic: Pinion Slack  (Read 2485 times)

Offline AMXguy

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Pinion Slack
« on: November 14, 2015 - 07:01:52 PM »
I have an 8 3/4  rear end with more pinion slack than I'd like.   it looks good and runs quite and smooth but you can tell when you let the clutch out it has slack.

Can the slack be adjusted out pretty easy or does it require setting the ring and pinion up all over again?   and I guess a good question is,  does it matter if there's slack?
1970 R/T SE Challenger
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Offline GoodysGotaCuda

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Re: Pinion Slack
« Reply #1 on: November 14, 2015 - 09:38:16 PM »
The technical term is backlash and yes, you certainly need it there to account for thermal expansion. There is a spec for it, and there can be too much or too little backlash.


Unfortunately, adjusting the backlash is one of the critical adjustments when setting up a gear set and is not easily "tightened up", without re-running the pattern.
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Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Pinion Slack
« Reply #2 on: November 14, 2015 - 11:31:33 PM »
if it is not making noise while running the pattern has to be right on or very close  , changing the pattern will create a whine unless you use new gears , so I would run them until there is some other sign of a problem

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Offline Sinatra

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Re: Pinion Slack
« Reply #3 on: November 15, 2015 - 12:46:52 AM »
Even at the wide end of the backlash spectrum I wouldn't think there would be enough driveline lash to generate a complaint at least not in an old Chrysler product. 

Just a thought: double-check your universal joints with the driveshaft removed at the pinion flange.  Checking them with the shaft fully installed can be misleading due to binding.  While you've got the shaft unbolted, check your pinion for wobble and in/out play.  A bad pinion bearing can cause a similar complaint without causing audible gear whine.  Then go try and wobble your slip yoke while it's still in the transmission to check the wear in the tailshaft bushing.  There should be a little wiggle there, but not much.  If the U-joints, pinion bearings, and slip yoke/tailshaft bushing check out, I'd agree with the others: don't mess with it.  Yes, the backlash can be tightened up without resetting the whole rear, but it's a finesse job.  It requires both the right tools and a solid familiarity with setting up the 8.75" in the first place.  If you lack either, you're better off just living with it.

Offline 73_Cuda_4_Me

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Re: Pinion Slack
« Reply #4 on: November 15, 2015 - 08:43:42 AM »
 ???

To reduce backlash, you have to add shim to inside pinion bearing, or adjust carrier bearings to move toward pinion gear. Which to use is determined by contact area on gears. If it isn't whining, and a small sample of the lube shows no sign of metallic wear particles, I'd run till something changes, then do proper inspection/correction/reset per FSM...

Confirm rest of driveline is good as recommended in earlier posts, just to make sure they are all good.... throwing a driveshaft = catastrophic failure!!

Don't forget to check tranny yoke spline fit as well, as I have seen splines wear out, especially on manual transmissions... bangin them gears can loosen them up!
« Last Edit: November 15, 2015 - 08:48:23 AM by 73_Cuda_4_Me »
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Offline 1 Wild R/T

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Re: Pinion Slack
« Reply #5 on: November 15, 2015 - 10:07:35 AM »
One thing not being touched on is it could be spider gears or cross shaft wear causing the slop...   As others have stated if it's in the ring & pinion set-up just run it...
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Offline Sinatra

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Re: Pinion Slack
« Reply #6 on: November 15, 2015 - 10:38:45 AM »
Don't forget to check tranny yoke spline fit as well, as I have seen splines wear out, especially on manual transmissions... bangin them gears can loosen them up!
Definitely a good idea.  I thought of the tailshaft bushing but not the splines themselves.  Definitely could be an issue after 40 years of manual gear changes!

Backlash is done solely with the side adjusters, though.  The pinion shim only affects the depth of tooth engagement and doesn't affect backlash at all.

Offline 73_Cuda_4_Me

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Re: Pinion Slack
« Reply #7 on: November 15, 2015 - 12:12:37 PM »
Is it an open diff, or Sure-Grip? If open, it could be as 1-Wild suggests - spider gears, shims, or cross-shaft... cone-type sure-grip may also be contributor...
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R11 V6X EN2
M21 M25 M31 M88 N41 N42
V1X U B41 C56 G37 J54
JY9 A6X9 0 703 501616
E55 D34 BS23 H3B 567783

Offline Sinatra

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Re: Pinion Slack
« Reply #8 on: November 15, 2015 - 01:27:48 PM »
That's very true as well.  The Borg-Warner cone-type diffs are notorious for wiping out the pinion shaft's bores.  They'll usually still burn both tires if the cone clutches are in good shape even with considerable pinion-shaft travel.  I thought the diff in my almost-200,000-mile Charger was fine, but when I pulled the center section there was nearly 1" of travel on one end of the pinion shaft.  It never made a peep, either.  ???

Offline AMXguy

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Re: Pinion Slack
« Reply #9 on: November 18, 2015 - 10:59:33 PM »
Well , it sounds like I should just run it.  down the road I'll probably put a Dana 60 in like I did in my Challenger anyway.   it is a posi by the way.

thanks guys.
1970 R/T SE Challenger
 1970 Superbee
 1969 S code Mach 1
 1967  GTO