2012 R/T 6spd., Tunes? Headers? Minor mods?

[joe1978c]

Hi all.  Haven't posted in a while BUT BEEN READING!  I have a few questions and curious of opinions for my latest Mopar.  I have a 2012 RT 6spd. car.  So far, I bought the DiabloSport InTune 1000-DCX. I used the canned 93 octane tune (DiabloSport tune), then moved rev limiter up to 6350, added 5% more fuel at WOT across entire rpm range, of course moved speed limiter from 169-190mph (lol), and moved the throttle sensitivity b/c of fly by wire to MAX. I did the WOT, throttle response, rev limiter mods due to posting from others (I also removed/replaced the #2 fuse, some say helpful, some say does nothing, figured can't hurt).  The only other current mod is a k&N CAI. (and yes, I realize its not a true CAI, and the K&N is not the best choice but figured better than stock w/silencing baffle, especially when I add the functional shaker setup from suncoast creaations, which will seal to the top).  Curious on thoughts concerning the manual mods I made in addition to the canned tune. (The car REALLY picked up some (don't wanna just GUESS number) power, as evidenced by 0-60 timer, how fast I go from launch to 3rd, the amt of wheel hop in 3rd, etc.  Any advice/thoughts welcomed. I also am going to order the 180 degree thermostat, and curious if lowering fan settings 20% a good idea as I have read to do thru all parameters once thermostat installed. (also not sure why this would matter, since car has electric fans, unlike an old car...sorry if this question seems stupid)  LASTLY, header advice? I don't have to worry about a sniffer test where I live, and was considering Stainless Works (GREAT results in previous cars I've owned) 1 7/8 long tubes w/ off road pipes? Thoughts and/or suggestions? Oh yeah, since I don't plan on MAJORLY modding the engine (no heads, blower, etc.), do you think there will be much performance differences b/t 1 5/8 and 1 7/8 long tube headers? (I ask b/c seems all 1 7/8 nearly DOUBLE the cost of various 1 5/8) If so, ballpark power difference?  I know long tube vs. shorty headers can be significant, but wasn't sure about the primary size in my application.  Thanks in advance for the comments/thoughts/opinions!!!  Hope everyone is having a great new year so far!!

[aris_unlimited]

Personally I wouldn't mess with the engine temp stuff unless you are getting excessive heat. Engines are traditionally designed to perform best at operating temperatures. As for the headers, get the 1 7/8 long tubes, the only reason I suggest that is someday you may want to toss a supercharger on there and you will be glad for the added tube size.

[joe1978c]

Personally I wouldn't mess with the engine temp stuff unless you are getting excessive heat. Engines are traditionally designed to perform best at operating temperatures. As for the headers, got the 1 7/8 long tubes, the only reason I suggest that is someday you may want to toss a supercharger on there and you will be glad for the added tube size.

Thanks Aris,
  I was kinda thinking the  same as far as header size goes. Not much difference now, but potentially a big difference IF I did do further mods, such as blower. I say I won't now, but we all know how that goes. I'm curious as to which headers people like the most, or see the most substantial gains. Also, when u say u wudnt mess w the temp stuff, do u mean w t stat, tuning w fan settIngs,  or both? I was under the impression that the car maximized emissions and fuel economy at the factory temp, but people report dramatic power gains w the 180 temp t stat. Not so much GAIN power but just don't have it ROBBED once engine up to 200+ degrees due to heat soak. I'm sure we all notice a bit more punch on a cool day once the engine is warm but b4 it heats all the way up to the factory desired operating temperature. Am a not rite w this train of thought?

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Oh Jeez, I could cloud the picture some more for you.   

I have the Diablo tuner, and that's a great gadget to play with. I did buy a *180 thermostat, but I never put it in after hearing these engines were all set to run at *200 - *205 from the factory. So yes, you would have to tell the fans to kick in at *180, but, is it really a dramatic difference in power?

The other comment I want to make is on your headers. The long tube will definitely get you more bang for the $$$. The larger the primary tube though, the more you will lose low end power if you haven't modified your engine. So, I want to say stay away from the 1 7/8" unless you know you are going to make changes to your engine.

[aris_unlimited]

I wouldn't mess with the thermostat or the fan. I have on previous cars that I have owned and noticed no difference. This is one of those things that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"

[joe1978c]

I wouldn't mess with the thermostat or the fan. I have on previous cars that I have owned and noticed no difference. This is one of those things that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"

Thanks to both people who responded. I remember reading somewhere on here about the tstat, and w dyno tests the (believe SRT car) made nearly 30 more rwhp w the 180 stat when compared to factory once car had heated up to temp, simulating real world conditions. By that I mean the otherwise stock car was dynoed while running at (factory operating temp?) 210? Or 215? Then again at 180-185 degrees. Not that the tstat GAVE the car any power, but rather the power wasn't robbed due to as much heat soak. I know the factory doesn't always have performance in mind, by mpg's and emissions instead. I know the 200+ degree temp is supposed to b optimum for pollution and gas miledge, but not necessarily performance. We all know our cars run faster in cooler air, b4 the car heats ALL the way up in the morn, etc. That was my line of thinkin there. So do people really think the 1 7/8 long tubes r too much on a pretty much stock motor(just tune and CAI rite now)? ...and that 1 5/8 long tubes wud be a better choice? (Assuming I don't add a blower and/or heads & cam, etc.?

[ZEN357]

Bolt on Mods I go with are as follows just for starters:

Edelbrock Victor Jr All Aluminum Intake Manifold (will take up to a 92MM throttle body)
BBK 90MM Throttle Body
BBK Shorty Ceramic Stainless Steel Headers
Borla ATAK Exhaust
K&N Cold Air Induction
K&N Oil Fitler
E3 Diamond Fire Spark Plugs
MSD Coils