Author Topic: Offset shackels  (Read 1501 times)

Offline Yellow Submarine

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 200
Offset shackels
« on: January 15, 2016 - 03:16:48 PM »
 8)
Like many here I am trying to figure out tire and wheel size along with brake and suspension mods as necessary. I'm pretty much set on 15" rally wheels and Goodrich T/As. I temporarily have a very nice original Ford stamped set of Magnum 500 14X7" wheels with 30+ yr old T/A 235 14" tires on it now and am figuring future tire sizes based on these.
I considered using them but really want Ralleys in 15".
Ok, for the front I think 235s will be good. The rears are making me nuts. Thinking 275 60s or maybe 295 50s. From what I have read 295s will fit 8" wheels but will require offset shackles. Do offset shackles require re-positioning the spring pad on the e body axle housing? Are 295 50s really ok on 8" wide wheels?
 Please give my your experiences and thoughts.
John
70' RT SE 383 Challenger
Factory Five MkIII Roadster (Cobra)
66' Mustang FB (GT 350 Clone)
70' Kawasaki 500 Mach III (H1)




Offline shawge

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 571
  • Zoiks!!
Re: Offset shackels
« Reply #1 on: January 15, 2016 - 04:21:21 PM »
When I went the offset route, I used offset shackles, offset hangers, and an axle with the correct spring perch locations (or get them repositioned.)

- Jerry

Offline dodj

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 6197
Re: Offset shackels
« Reply #2 on: January 15, 2016 - 04:55:42 PM »
Spring perches will have to be re-positioned. Not a tough job, but educate yourself on drive line angles so you get them in the right spot. It can get confusing.
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline 1 Wild R/T

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 4594
Re: Offset shackels
« Reply #3 on: January 15, 2016 - 09:50:06 PM »
Typically the trick is use the 1" offset hangers, use a B body housing & axles.. It drops right on the perches, the pinion angle is already set.. The B body housing & axles are 1.5" narrower than the E body axle so you gain 1/4" on the spring to wheel & 3/4" between the wheel & the outer wheel well....
JS27N0B 70 Challenger R/T Convertible  FJ5 Sublime, Show Poodle w/90,000 miles since resto
WS27L8G 68 Coronet R/T Convertible  PP1 Bright Red, Project
RM21H9E 69 Road Runner Coupe R4 Performance Red, Sold...
5H21C  65 Falcon 2 dr Wagon... Dog Hauler...

Offline HP2

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 4478
Re: Offset shackels
« Reply #4 on: January 16, 2016 - 10:20:57 AM »
Just stick with 275s and don't mess with changing up the suspension. Its much easier.

Offline 69CHARGERMD

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 397
Re: Offset shackels
« Reply #5 on: January 16, 2016 - 10:37:13 AM »
"Typically the trick is use the 1" offset hangers, use a B body housing & axles.. It drops right on the perches, the pinion angle is already set.. The B body housing & axles are 1.5" narrower than the E body axle so you gain 1/4" on the spring to wheel & 3/4" between the wheel & the outer wheel well.... "

This is what I did,,but I was starting from scratch and needed a rear end, springs, etc.  295/65/15 now fits perfect.



« Last Edit: January 16, 2016 - 10:40:21 AM by 69CHARGERMD »
1970 Challenger WSS
1969 Charger RT/SE
1965 Belvedere

Offline dodj

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 6197
Re: Offset shackels
« Reply #6 on: January 16, 2016 - 10:52:44 AM »
I used the 1.5" offset shackles so moving the perches was necessary. I also added offset front hangers. Allowed me to fit 315's in the added room! :2thumbs:
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline Yellow Submarine

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 200
Re: Offset shackels
« Reply #7 on: January 17, 2016 - 02:39:18 AM »
Thanks everyone, very helpful. I think for now I will go with 275s. I will keep my eyes open for a good deal on a b axle housing for down the road
John
70' RT SE 383 Challenger
Factory Five MkIII Roadster (Cobra)
66' Mustang FB (GT 350 Clone)
70' Kawasaki 500 Mach III (H1)

Offline HP2

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 4478
Re: Offset shackels
« Reply #8 on: January 17, 2016 - 01:14:49 PM »
other bits of info for consideration...

Using the B housing only minimizes welding and changes the required wheel backspace. It does not create more room.

Offsetting the spring 1" will require new mounting pads on the E body housing.  Offsetting the spring 1" allows use of a B body housing without changing mounting pads.

Using the E body housing will require .5" to 1" (the most commonly found differences) more backspace on the wheel than using the B body housing.

However, B body housings are not all identical in width. They vary slightly. IIRC, the groups are 62-64, 65, 66-67, 68-70, 71-79.  Depending on which one you use, they may require relocating  spring pads and use differing wheel offsets. The 66-70 era  are the most commonly used housings for the E body swap that do not require moving the pads, but the 66-67 housing require .5" less backspace than the 68-70 versions. 71-79 versions are actually wider than E body housings so they will require up to 1" more backspace than using an E body housing.

Once the springs are out of the way, a Challenger can hold a 335 tire before the frame rails become the limiting factor.

295 will fit an 8" rim, but will require lower tire pressure to get full tread contact.  295 on a 10" rim  may require a bit more  pressure to equalize tread contact.

Offline Yellow Submarine

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 200
Re: Offset shackels
« Reply #9 on: January 17, 2016 - 03:32:02 PM »
Thanks HP 2 . That answers a few more questions I had. For every thing you change on a car 3 more are necessary.
70' RT SE 383 Challenger
Factory Five MkIII Roadster (Cobra)
66' Mustang FB (GT 350 Clone)
70' Kawasaki 500 Mach III (H1)