Eastwood rust products

[Rdchallenger12]

Looking for something sprayable preferably since the car is still fully assembled and would like to get in tight areas. Otherwise I'd def brush it

[340challconvert]

Can really appreciate everyone's comments here.
I am in the process of removing surface rust and do some small repairs on my A66 Challenger vert floor. Most of it is solid so I looked at available coatings.  I decided to use Rust Bullet on the inside floor: you can put it over some lite rust and covers the bare metal nicely.

I do not have access to a media blaster/compressor so I too am using hand methods to strip and prep the metal.
I am using a drill with the wire brushes of different sizes, belt sander, a DA a dremel tool and scrapers.  Worked really well with 60-80 grit.  A lot of work, but does well with basic tools.  As stated above wear eye and hand protection, those wires really do fly (I used the cheapo Harbor Freight brushes for 6.00 and throw them away when I am done)

Over the Rust Bullet I will put Eastwood Epoxy Primer.  Hopefully it will settle any on-going rust issues on the inside floor
Under the car (not looking forward to this) I will clean up in a similar manner. I did the due diligence on Rust Bullet vs Por 15.  Seemed the RB was better for covering lite rust and pitted metal internally and it goes on with a brush. Just my opinion.
So far the floor turned out clean and workable with simple tools and not a lot of money spent for a car that will be a driver!
Just my thoughts!

[Rdchallenger12]

Can really appreciate everyone's comments here.
I am in the process of removing surface rust and do some small repairs on my A66 Challenger vert floor. Most of it is solid so I looked at available coatings.  I decided to use Rust Bullet on the inside floor: you can put it over some lite rust and covers the bare metal nicely.

I do not have access to a media blaster/compressor so I too am using hand methods to strip and prep the metal.
I am using a drill with the wire brushes of different sizes, belt sander, a DA a dremel tool and scrapers.  Worked really well with 60-80 grit.  A lot of work, but does well with basic tools.  As stated above wear eye and hand protection, those wires really do fly (I used the cheapo Harbor Freight brushes for 6.00 and throw them away when I am done)

Over the Rust Bullet I will put Eastwood Epoxy Primer.  Hopefully it will settle any on-going rust issues on the inside floor
Under the car (not looking forward to this) I will clean up in a similar manner. I did the due diligence on Rust Bullet vs Por 15.  Seemed the RB was better for covering lite rust and pitted metal internally and it goes on with a brush. Just my opinion.
So far the floor turned out clean and workable with simple tools and not a lot of money spent for a car that will be a driver!
Just my thoughts!

Oh yeah! Harbor Freight is my friend lmao. That's where I picked up my wheels from as well

[Beekeeper]

Ok, so I tried out the KBS (aka rust stops here) and I was happy. They claim that the better you prep, the better the result. Makes sense. I bought their frame kit for $62 and it came with cleaner, rust neutralizer/etcher, and a quart of paint available in ten colors.

I cleaned it well with wire wheels in the light rust areas and even a light grinding in the heavier areas before wire wheel. The cleaner still lifted more out, especially if you wet sand with 320 as they recommend. The etcher is just a mild phosphoric acid but it worked well and is part of the kit.

The paint is thin enough to spray with a gun but I chose to brush since its inside a hidden area. The brushes they provide suck so use something better. You can clean them but I didn't care to try since the product is impervious to solvents once dry. They recommend two coats about 3 hours apart. The brush strokes flowed out really nice.

They claim you can top coat it. I may do the entire engine bay and front wheel well area since it's pretty rusty all over. If I do, I'm going to use black in the wheel wells and leave it be and use white in the bay covered by a good epoxy primer sealer then top coat it.

The stuff is hard as nails once dry

340ChallConvert....I think you are going to be forced to section in a new piece in the floor pan where the holes are. Once it gets holes like that, the metal is rice paper thin. I have tried weld filling those on things I couldn't replace and it's a major effort. The welder just blows holes in the surrounding metal. You can put little patches over the holes but it's really not a proper fix and looks terrible. Those floor repair sections are not pricey and A decent shop should be able to butt weld in new metal at a fair price. It's not a big job for them.

On the other areas without holes, I think you're on the right track. I've never tried por15 so I don't know much about it. Go to the KBS website and watch their how to videos.

On the bottom side...what I do to make it easier is put all four corners of the car on super heavy duty jack stands (obviously under solid front frame rail and rear housing points for safety) the heavy duty stands are cheap and go really tall. I put my projects in the center of the garage and high enough that I can work comfortably on my back.

I would do it once and do it right by removing the transmission, driveshaft, shifter hardware, and e brake cable. The best thing I found for undercoating is the gasket scrapers from craftsman. Use a file to keep them sharp, some brute force and you can strip 90% of that nastiness off in a couple hours.

According to KBS, the best way to really get the paint to bond to the rust is to get all the old paint, undercoat, rust off. The first pic you showed after wire brushing is what they recommend for good prep.

[340challconvert]

Beekeeper thanks for your thoughts.
 I was looking at buying the AMD left front floor panel and piecing it from the factory seam under the dash to just before the front bucket seat. Seam it to the lip under the door sill, and at the bottom of the trans hump on the right. The real weak metal is at the transition bend to the flat ribbed area. The rest is real solid.

[Beekeeper]

I just installed an upper cowl on a 70 Charger this weekend. It was AMD and it really fit nice. Very little fitting required. That floor section should work out great for you. I will probably always pay extra for AMD now that I've tried something of theirs in a crital area like this. You might be okay with other brands too since you're going to be cutting and fitting.

By the way, the sealer I used was Lord Fusor 112b. It's actually a bonding agent that glues metal together like in modern construction. I still plug welded it but this stuff is a weld through product so you can do both. Use a sealer on metal that overlaps like against the inside rocker and firewall. Ideally you would butt weld at the back edge and transmission hump area for a cleaner look. Don't have to though...could overlap those joints too since no one sees it.

[340challconvert]

I just installed an upper cowl on a 70 Charger this weekend. It was AMD and it really fit nice. Very little fitting required. That floor section should work out great for you. I will probably always pay extra for AMD now that I've tried something of theirs in a crital area like this. You might be okay with other brands too since you're going to be cutting and fitting.

By the way, the sealer I used was Lord Fusor 112b. It's actually a bonding agent that glues metal together like in modern construction. I still plug welded it but this stuff is a weld through product so you can do both. Use a sealer on metal that overlaps like against the inside rocker and firewall. Ideally you would butt weld at the back edge and transmission hump area for a cleaner look. Don't have to though...could overlap those joints too since no one sees it.

Good Advice
AMD seems to have the best product currently.  The small panels should be just fine.
Heard a lot of negative about the fitment of their Challenger fenders lately though from other entusiasts!

[rhamson]

Can really appreciate everyone's comments here.
I am in the process of removing surface rust and do some small repairs on my A66 Challenger vert floor. Most of it is solid so I looked at available coatings.  I decided to use Rust Bullet on the inside floor: you can put it over some lite rust and covers the bare metal nicely.

I do not have access to a media blaster/compressor so I too am using hand methods to strip and prep the metal.
I am using a drill with the wire brushes of different sizes, belt sander, a DA a dremel tool and scrapers.  Worked really well with 60-80 grit.  A lot of work, but does well with basic tools.  As stated above wear eye and hand protection, those wires really do fly (I used the cheapo Harbor Freight brushes for 6.00 and throw them away when I am done)

Over the Rust Bullet I will put Eastwood Epoxy Primer.  Hopefully it will settle any on-going rust issues on the inside floor
Under the car (not looking forward to this) I will clean up in a similar manner. I did the due diligence on Rust Bullet vs Por 15.  Seemed the RB was better for covering lite rust and pitted metal internally and it goes on with a brush. Just my opinion.
So far the floor turned out clean and workable with simple tools and not a lot of money spent for a car that will be a driver!
Just my thoughts!

I don't know much about Rust Bullet as I have used POR15 for years. As far as applying over rust POR15 is very good as it seals and converts the rust. You must also knock off any loose rust. But you cannot apply it over paint. It will flake up and peal off. You must also pre treat the area with a degreaser and metal prep. The stuff is also easily applied with brush or spray. The sheen flows into a glossy smooth finish which you can leave if it is not exposed to sunlight. If sunlight is a problem you can apply their Tie Coat directly to the POR15 which will prime it for whatever paint you want on top of it. Just to clear it up for you and I have heard very good things about Rust Bullet.

[340challconvert]

Not promoting Rust Bullet over Por 15 or visa versa

Went with RB only because applications allowed product to be put over solid, existing paint after it was scuffed and over non-loose surface rust

The paint on most of my inside floor was mostly still intact with the original factory primer underneath.
It took a lot of effort to remove the intact factory paint and primer in clean floor areas.

Major surface rust was removed and I thought it safe with reasonable labor to try rust proofing this way.
Appreciate your feedback,  hope time will give me a good result.

[redo1973]

I'm about to finish this phase an it is no small task.  I first used a heat gun and putty knife and gasket tool to remove the heavy undercoating.  I then used a wire wheel from Harbor freight (several) on my 4 1/2 inch angle grinder along with an assortment of cup and wire brushes on my drill.  I did a final cleaning with Eastwood pre-paint.  I had found this product by MasterSeries Coatings that is used on bridges and marine applications.  It works best with sandblasting but is also promoted for limited preparation (like a bridge).  The stuff is self-leveling and applied by a foam brush or roller.  It can be sprayed but needs alot of ventilation.  It is a moisture cured urethane and seals rust.  I'll then topcoat with their AG111 two part paint.  It's my first time with this but I found it to be more affordable than POR and the stated usages were more severe then the underside of a Muscle car. BTW - can't stress enough the important of the leather gloves, eye protection and a sleeved shirt.  I too looked like a hedge hog everytime I work with the wire wheel.  I had a couple log into my cheek.  Nothing harmful, funny as heck though.

[redo1973]

I've used the eastwood internal frame paint on the frame, rockers and internal body frame including between the roof skin and the frame. A few words of advice: tape every possible gap as it will make a mess.  I also straighten the tube using warm water and stretching.

[340challconvert]

Nice work Redo

[340challconvert]

Ok, so I tried out the KBS (aka rust stops here) and I was happy. They claim that the better you prep, the better the result. Makes sense. I bought their frame kit for $62 and it came with cleaner, rust neutralizer/etcher, and a quart of paint available in ten colors.

I cleaned it well with wire wheels in the light rust areas and even a light grinding in the heavier areas before wire wheel. The cleaner still lifted more out, especially if you wet sand with 320 as they recommend. The etcher is just a mild phosphoric acid but it worked well and is part of the kit.

The paint is thin enough to spray with a gun but I chose to brush since its inside a hidden area. The brushes they provide suck so use something better. You can clean them but I didn't care to try since the product is impervious to solvents once dry. They recommend two coats about 3 hours apart. The brush strokes flowed out really nice.

They claim you can top coat it. I may do the entire engine bay and front wheel well area since it's pretty rusty all over. If I do, I'm going to use black in the wheel wells and leave it be and use white in the bay covered by a good epoxy primer sealer then top coat it.

The stuff is hard as nails once dry

340ChallConvert....I think you are going to be forced to section in a new piece in the floor pan where the holes are. Once it gets holes like that, the metal is rice paper thin. I have tried weld filling those on things I couldn't replace and it's a major effort. The welder just blows holes in the surrounding metal. You can put little patches over the holes but it's really not a proper fix and looks terrible. Those floor repair sections are not pricey and A decent shop should be able to butt weld in new metal at a fair price. It's not a big job for them.

On the other areas without holes, I think you're on the right track. I've never tried por15 so I don't know much about it. Go to the KBS website and watch their how to videos.

On the bottom side...what I do to make it easier is put all four corners of the car on super heavy duty jack stands (obviously under solid front frame rail and rear housing points for safety) the heavy duty stands are cheap and go really tall. I put my projects in the center of the garage and high enough that I can work comfortably on my back.

I would do it once and do it right by removing the transmission, driveshaft, shifter hardware, and e brake cable. The best thing I found for undercoating is the gasket scrapers from craftsman. Use a file to keep them sharp, some brute force and you can strip 90% of that nastiness off in a couple hours.

According to KBS, the best way to really get the paint to bond to the rust is to get all the old paint, undercoat, rust off. The first pic you showed after wire brushing is what they recommend for good prep.

BeeKeeper, thanks for your thoughts!

[soundcontrol]

I've used the eastwood internal frame paint on the frame, rockers and internal body frame including between the roof skin and the frame. A few words of advice: tape every possible gap as it will make a mess.  I also straighten the tube using warm water and stretching.

I'm gonna order some of that, how many cans did you use for the car? Hows the surface after painting? I bought a steel brush on a long (3 ft) hard wire that can go inside the frame thru one of the holes. Its made for cleaing the channels in small fireplaces. Haven't tried it yet though, but its a good size for the inside of the frame.

[redo1973]

I think that I used 4 but it was over a series of a year.  The stuff is extremely watery and I probably wasted more than necessary.  You can pull the tube out quicker than you think but I went slow to ensure a good coverage but it streamed out of the cracks and seams.  I had alot of my floor open so I could wire brush some of the frame rails but really wished that I had a brush like you described.  I used the green paint on the rails and since found it in black and used it.  You can also by a can of Pre paint preparation and connect the hose to it to clean it and reuse the tube.