Hot hot is the coil supposed to get.

[usraptr]

Fresh 4430 engine build on 70 'Cuda. Converted to electronic ignition. Trying to start engine with no luck so far.   I noticed that after cranking the engine several times the coil was very hot to the touch.  Not burning hot, but very very warm/hot.  Is this normal?   Black wire from ECU to negative side of coil, blue wire with yellow tracer to run wire.  Blue run wire connected to positive side of coil.  Yesterday I had the blue wire with y tracer hooked up to the wrong blue wire(goes to the alternator).  I cranked the engine several times.  Is it possible I fired the ECU by doing this.  Also, another newbie/stupid question.  Does the distributor fire when it's at the .008 position where you measure the "air gap" or at a different position?   

[HP_Cuda]

The ballast resistor is in place to keep the voltage down on the coil when the motor is running. It does bypass it when cranking the motor so the starter gets the full 12V to start but then kicks down to 8-9V so the coil can last.

You need to find out what voltage is getting to the coil when the car is running.

[usraptr]

Right now I can't get engine running to check the voltage.

[HP_Cuda]

Ok, take a ohm resistance reading of your ballast resistor and coil and post back here.

[usraptr]

Thanks, my son is coming over tomorrow and we'll check it out and post the results.

[dodj]

And seeing as it is freshly rewired,( ALL redone on this car, right?) go over the schematic and make sure you have all the wires going to the correct place. Make sure you have 12vdc on the brown wire when trying to start. If you have redone the column and wiring, check that the column connectors have the blue and brown wires in the right place. ie blue on one side matches blue on the other. Ive seen one repro ignition switch with them reversed.

[usraptr]

HP Cuda, ohm resistance on ballast resistor is 2.5 and the coil was 1.8.

dodj, I'm using the original wire harness.  I thoroughly checked it out prior to reinstalling and it was in good shape including the steering column wiring.   The only new wiring is the ECU to convert to an electronic distributor.  My Run wire from the ignition is blue.   I assume from a previous post I read there really isn't a correct side for the ballast resistor so it doesn't make any difference which side of the ballast resistor the "run" wire is connected too?

[73440]

http://s1302.photobucket.com/user/73440/slideshow/Electronic%20Ignition

I installed a Rev-N-Nator and Accell electronic distributor recently.
The wiring to the ballastt resistor in the photos is how I finally got the engine to run.

[usraptr]

Thanks 73440.  Question in the picture #7 of your cam/distributor drive gear it appears to me that the slot is not parallel with the center line of the crankshaft.  It's more at an 1-2 o'clock position.  Am I just looking at it wrong?  Also, my car has a two prong ballast resistor instead of a 4 prong.

[HP_Cuda]

Ballast seems a bit high. You should probably replace it. Your standard coil should be 1.3 to 1.7 so that is a little on the high side. Total resistence is 4.3 ohms.

Here is some good reads:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=57397.msg629044#msg629044
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=115

HP Cuda, ohm resistance on ballast resistor is 2.5 and the coil was 1.8.

dodj, I'm using the original wire harness.  I thoroughly checked it out prior to reinstalling and it was in good shape including the steering column wiring.   The only new wiring is the ECU to convert to an electronic distributor.  My Run wire from the ignition is blue.   I assume from a previous post I read there really isn't a correct side for the ballast resistor so it doesn't make any difference which side of the ballast resistor the "run" wire is connected too?

[73440]

You are correct , it was not parallel to crankshaft like the manual said , I believe I posed that same question on here when I saw that also and was assured that as long as you still get it all lined up with #1 cyl on compression it is all good.
Although with the new distributor and how it was clocked , I had to rotate the plug wires for the firing order on the cap to compensate to align the rotor with #1 cyl.
The two photos of the rotors show the difference in where the rotors pointed to and why I moved the wires.
I have a photo somewhere showing the rotors and distributor drive gear tenon do not match from points to electronic distributors.

I am not sure of the wiring to a two post ballast resistor.

[usraptr]

Thanks HP cuda.  That was a good write up and explanation.

Also, thanks 73440.    I really appreciate your guys help.  I'll get back to you if I can get this fired.

[usraptr]

Checked abd re-checked everything and wasn't getting any spark.  Summit is going to replace everything on warranty.  Will let you know how it goes when I get the new kit installed.

[dodj]

2.5 ohms doesn't seem too bad for a run ballast resistance to me?
But seeing as it doesn't start, that would not be your most pressing problem. Seeing as your coil is heating up, it must be getting the 12vdc (or at least something) You can disconnect your starter wire and have someone hold the key in 'start' and measure the voltage on the brown wire. I'll bet you are getting 12vdc. If it is there, and you have made sure all wiring is correct, it is down to ECU or reluctor. 

[usraptr]

Still no luck with new Dist and ECU.  Started a new post.