Murphy hanging around Atlanta area- Alternator trouble

Author Topic: Murphy hanging around Atlanta area- Alternator trouble  (Read 3680 times)

RedLine

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Murphy hanging around Atlanta area- Alternator trouble
« on: July 03, 2005 - 08:41:27 PM »
Driving today with the Challenger to our famly's house I noticed the Ammeter wasnt at the 4 oclock (3/4) position like normal -  was at 8 oclock (1/4).   Hmmm??    wondered what might be up with the alternator.  Then a few minutes later- smelled something burning from the A/C.  cut off the A/C - shut off the ignition and coasted off the road to the side, and with fire extinguisher in hand prepared for the worst.   But upon opening the hood, and inspecting everything saw nothing wrong.   So we figured something in the A/C went bad, and maybe we have alternator going out.  drove the rest of our trip.  Later we reinspected- and saw this broken (and burnt) batt connecter just sitting outside the alternator case just barley touching the alt case and when I moved it it sparked on the case.  So we tiewrapped it as shown below and drove back home on just the battery.   Now this alternator we've had for over 4 years in various boxes, on and off the engine...and was working fine the last few months.  what could have caused this sudden problem?? the new A/C?  the fact that we had A/C, Lights, and Windshield wipers on (we went through a rainstorm!)  Or just an old/ bad terminal that just shorted out finally?  On the chance that we are drawing a heavier load with the new A/C  we ordered a 75 amp alternator which will arrive Wednesday.

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?target=partdetail.asp&part=PWM-17509&promo=281

Any thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions??   Electrical stuff is tricky...   

« Last Edit: July 03, 2005 - 08:44:33 PM by Rev-It-Up »




Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Murphy hanging around Atlanta area- Alternator trouble
« Reply #1 on: July 03, 2005 - 11:35:41 PM »
oddly we had a similar problem Fri the alt even though it was new was not built correctly & quit charging on fri , we found a local rebuilder to fix it on the spot  :thumbs:
 your may not have been assembled correctly either

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Offline Mopar73340

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Re: Murphy hanging around Atlanta area- Alternator trouble
« Reply #2 on: July 04, 2005 - 08:56:07 AM »
Sorry to hear about your troubles Red, glad it happened there and not at Carlisle though. Just as a heads up I know someone who has had trouble with the powermaster alts, not 1 but 2 of them, I hope it was just a fluke and your's turns out ok.
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RedLine

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Re: Murphy hanging around Atlanta area- Alternator trouble
« Reply #3 on: July 04, 2005 - 09:37:14 AM »
anyone know what is the upper limit on alternator amperage you can go with standard harness and wiring?

Offline MEK-Dangerfield

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Re: Murphy hanging around Atlanta area- Alternator trouble
« Reply #4 on: July 04, 2005 - 10:13:52 AM »
Chris,
  I have an 80 amp alternator in mine now to compensate for the amplifier in the trunk.  :guitar: You should be good in that range, but if you go up to 100 amps, that might be something else.

  Mike

Mike

1970 Challenger - SOLD
2016 SXT+.  1 of 524 SXT+'s in Plumb-crazy for 2016.

Offline Robb

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Re: Murphy hanging around Atlanta area- Alternator trouble
« Reply #5 on: July 04, 2005 - 10:34:07 AM »
One of the tricks to putting in Massive Car Stereo system in vehicles is upgrading the Alternators and Battery systems.

You can change the wires size to accomodate  (dont forget the ground straps)

Think of the car this way,  the battery is for starting the car, the alternator is what it really runs from.


http://www.highampalternators.com/FAQ.htm



heres a web snippet:

Do I need a Bigger Battery wire to the Alternator?
When upgrading to a higher output alternator you should always install a larger wire between the alternator and  battery. Even with a standard output alternator you will get better performance and life out of your alternator if you upgrade the main battery wiring. The original wire just isn't large enough for proper power transfer.
If you are using your alternator to it's maximum output or when you upgrade to a higher output Alternator you must increase the wires size. An alternators ability to send the power it is making to the battery is directly related to the wire size and quality of connection between the alternator and battery.
 Also, a wire that is to small when used on a high output alternator can cause the power to back up within the alternator making it overheat, burn up and fail.
Another area that little is paid attention to is the ground. You must also improve the ground as well. A poor ground will hinder the alternators ability to send power to the battery and can burn an alternator up just as fast as an inadequate alternator to battery wire. Your ground may be fine when you first install your alternator but over time corrosion and resistance builds up in the ground connections. This is why it is best to run the ground directly from the rear of the alternator to the battery.

Here is another great auto electric tip from Randy DuBois on upgrading the wire between the alternator and battery. Randy says, you do not need to rip out your old wiring when upgrading. You can piggy back a second wire between the alternator and battery. The main battery wire connected to the back of the alternator has power to it at all times, even when the vehicle is shut off.  You connect this wire like normal then you run a second wire between the alternator and battery. The power coming out of the alternator will treat the two wires as one, power follows the path of least resistance.

On a safety note when running the second wire you should fuse it near the battery. The fuse is just in case the wire gets pinched or shorted out, the fuse will blow instead of the wire burning up. You should use the largest fuse you can for the wire size, fuses are restrictive to current flow.


THE BIG 3 !

The Big 3 are
1) alternator positive to battery positive
2) battery negative to frame
3) engine block to frame
 
2 gauge to 1/0 gauge wire upgrade is common.  If youre cheap like me, go to the welding supply store.   Super Flexible  2 gauge cable is  ~1$ a foot   

For connectors/terminals, go to the Hardware store like ACE or True Value and hit the Rip-Off bins (buy pieces one at a time, as opposed to packages of 5-10) youll find a better sellection of terminal ends.  Its usually NOT located with the nuts and bolts area, but they are the same kind of bins
« Last Edit: July 04, 2005 - 10:49:02 AM by Robb »

70 Challenger SE  (440 SIX PACK / Keisler 5 speed, R/T SE replication)       68 Sport Satellite Convertible 383 Super Commando / 727  Survivor

2002 Trans AM WS6 convertible:  DD
1999 4Runner 4x4:  lifted-locked-armored  expedition vehicle
1990 Jeep XJ 4x4:  Front Dana 60, GM-14bolt rear, 3 link, 4link, 5.38 detroits, beadlocked 40's, stretched to 110" wb  Rock Crawler

Offline MEK-Dangerfield

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Re: Murphy hanging around Atlanta area- Alternator trouble
« Reply #6 on: July 04, 2005 - 11:06:26 AM »
Wow  :o :o :o

  You da man Robb. Thanks for the info.  :thumbs:

  Mike

Mike

1970 Challenger - SOLD
2016 SXT+.  1 of 524 SXT+'s in Plumb-crazy for 2016.

RedLine

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Re: Murphy hanging around Atlanta area- Alternator trouble
« Reply #7 on: July 04, 2005 - 03:18:19 PM »
Thanks everyone for the info!    I put in a $30   65amp one from local part store just to tie us over until the 75amp one arrives.  Then I'll switch and use the other for a backup for Carlisle.  Thanks again   :thumbs:

Offline Robb

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Re: Murphy hanging around Atlanta area- Alternator trouble
« Reply #8 on: July 04, 2005 - 04:26:24 PM »
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/howitworks.shtml

more general info and theory for the masses.   


Sometimes it helps to think of electricity flowing through wires,  like water flowing through pipes.   Except of course, wires catch on fire, while water pipes burst. 

70 Challenger SE  (440 SIX PACK / Keisler 5 speed, R/T SE replication)       68 Sport Satellite Convertible 383 Super Commando / 727  Survivor

2002 Trans AM WS6 convertible:  DD
1999 4Runner 4x4:  lifted-locked-armored  expedition vehicle
1990 Jeep XJ 4x4:  Front Dana 60, GM-14bolt rear, 3 link, 4link, 5.38 detroits, beadlocked 40's, stretched to 110" wb  Rock Crawler

Offline Mt.St.BigBlock

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Re: Murphy hanging around Atlanta area- Alternator trouble
« Reply #9 on: July 04, 2005 - 08:23:04 PM »
Just a reminder, Keep most of those added accessories connected on the engine side of the bulkhead
connector(at the battery) The bulkhead connector is marginal in current carrying capacity with the
factory installed stuff and will burn up with more load and alternator capacity. Jeff
71 cuda 383 3spd manual gy9

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Murphy hanging around Atlanta area- Alternator trouble
« Reply #10 on: July 04, 2005 - 11:39:51 PM »
or use relays to shunt the load

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline Mt.St.BigBlock

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Re: Murphy hanging around Atlanta area- Alternator trouble
« Reply #11 on: July 05, 2005 - 03:15:10 PM »
or use relays to shunt the load

Roger Dodger on that!! :thumbs:
71 cuda 383 3spd manual gy9