Author Topic: Rear air shocks  (Read 2597 times)

Offline drswiger

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 9
Rear air shocks
« on: January 12, 2022 - 11:22:45 PM »
74 Challenger. Looking for air adjustable rear shocks to get the rake I want. I am new to the scene so looking for advice on what to go with
Thanks




Offline 70chall440

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 6484
Re: Rear air shocks
« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2022 - 01:00:10 AM »
I have owned many Mopars over the last 45+ years and I would tell you that air shocks are not a great option. They were all the rage back in the day but to be honest they sucked, they caused the car to ride horribly, handle poorly and frequently failed. A good part of this problem is the fact that the shock brace where the shocks in the rear bolt to in the top was never meant to take the weight of the car. In far too many cases using air shocks ruins this brace but wallowing out the holes and in extreme cases results in the shocks coming through the truck floor or damaging it. Speaking from experience I can tell you that driving a car with the back end jacked way up is not very pleasant, going around a corner is down right terrifying. 

What "rake" are you after exactly? It is probably a pretty good bet that your rear leaf's are sagging a bit which causes the rear end to droop some, a new set of springs will help immensely in many areas. The front end can lowered by adjusting the torsion bar screws (you will need to get the front end aligned afterward). Another option is wheel/tire selection, put taller tires in the rear (along with the new springs).

All this said, you can definitely get air shocks, there are even newer higher speed air adjustable shocks out there but they are not cheap but this does not solve any of the other issues.
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

Offline drswiger

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 9
Re: Rear air shocks
« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2022 - 03:18:52 AM »
Appreciate the advice and you are right, a new set of springs is probably the way to go. Believe the old shocks need replacing anyway so will start there. How big a pain is the rear leaf change for a guy in the driveway without a lift?

Offline 70chall440

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 6484
Re: Rear air shocks
« Reply #3 on: January 13, 2022 - 11:59:36 AM »
It isn't that bad so long as you plan it out. You need a couple of sets of jack stands, one set goes under the frame near the rear leaf spring hangers, the other set under the rearend itself but these need to put at a height where the rearend is just above full droop. The reason for this is that you are going to leave the the rear end in place and just replace the springs (or you can remove all of it as well but this means disconnecting the brake lines which means bleeding them post event).

The hardest part of this is removing the nuts from the U bolts that hold the rear axle to the springs. Due to how they are installed the threads are exposed to all of the road grime, water, impacts, etc. so those nuts can usually be a *****. My advice is buy new (correct) U bolts and nuts, then just cut the old ones off using a cut off wheel, torch, etc. (torch works great).

Once you have the rear end disconnected from the springs, then its just a matter of removing the rear shackle through bolts (you can do just the ones on the springs or the ones on the frame, I would do the frame as they are usually a bit less jacked up and it will allow you to replace the busing there). Don't remove the bolt after getting the nut off, keep it in until you get the front hanger bolts off so you are not fighting the weight of the spring. On this note, you want to remove the 4 9/16 nuts off the front of the spring hangers, not the 1 big through bolt. Once you remove the 4 nuts the spring should want to come down, then remove the shackle bolt.

Installation is the reverse. It isn't that hard but a lot of it has to do with what tools you have available. You are going to need a 1/2" drive socket set with a breaker bar for the shackle bolts along with a 3/4" wrench. If you are going to try and get the U bolt nuts off you are going to need at least that breaker bar and perhaps a cheater bar for it as well and perhaps even some heat from a Oxy/Acetylene torch. I just need one the other day and out of the 8 U bolt nuts 7 came off with my 18V Makita impact (200+ ftlbs of torque) but one had to be heated red hot (several times) to get off. I could have just cut them off but I was being stubborn.

Look, many people do this all the time in their driveway without a lift, on a scale of 1-10 where 1 is near impossible and 10 is super easy, this is probably a 5 or 6 only because of the planning and tools required as well as the rolling around on the ground part. 
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)