drip rail/roof rail moulding sealer

[mjk289]

Hey I was wondering if anyone knew what to use to fill in the gap between the roof and drip rail moulding.  I tried seam sealer but it shrank and cracked.  I need some kind of caulk that will not shrink and is paintable.  Has anyone done this. Thanks....Mike

[hotrod98]

3M drip check sealer. Any automotive paint store should have it. It's the only product that I've found that will work right. I've tried some of those high dollar two part seam sealers and they end up doing strange things, from shrinking to swelling and cracking. Sometimes, much later after the paint is complete.
Use 3M 3/4" green masking tape and tape off the roof along the drip rail trough and along the drip rail edge where you want the edge of the sealer to stop, Apply sealer and carefully pull tape before the sealer has a chance to start drying for a clean factory looking edge. If you wait for it to dry, it leaves an unsealed edge.I would let it dry for a couple of days no matter what the tube instructions say before applying topcoats.

[VPOINTCUDA]

Yeah I was wondering the same thing. Mine had bondo plastered in them about a 1/4 in. deep. I used a power brush to get it all out, now I have to re-seal it before I paint it. I can't believe the way people do such hack jobs on these cars !  :gripe:

[mjk289]

Thank you. That helps alot.

[Mt.St.BigBlock]

    Good info Hotrod98 thank you!  I'm wondering, is that then the same stuff they used
on the edges of the panel below the rear back glass and the quarter panels at the top trunk
corners? Kind of looks similar. I might solder that joint after welding and then form file it to look like
stock to make sure it stays watertight, but haven't decided yet.  Jeff

[hotrod98]

To be honest with you, I've had trouble with that seam as well. The two part stuff that I paid around $40.00 a tube for swelled a few days after painting the car. The seam sealer that I used on my 73 car has already cracked. I think you have a good idea with the soldering thing. I might try that myself on the next one. The trick might be getting the look just right. You might post some pics on here after you've finished. I think it just might work. That's not really a stress point on coupes. On convertibles it is a stress point and that's why they leaded in the seams. They still crack if you let the body twist, expecially with the doors removed. Ask me how I know.