Author Topic: a little prep help? (Read 1899 times)

R/T hedkace · « **on:** November 24, 2005 - 08:31:06 PM »

How depressing, right now it's 18 degrees out, 4 days off from work, all the motivation in the world to get going on my R/T, and nothing I can do about it.Tomorrows forecast.....F'n snow. I have to look at her resting under a cover for another LONG, miserable winter.
I've been bringing a few small parts to work to bead blast them, just to keep the motivation up. I could use a little help though. I've been told a few different ways, so I'm hoping someone can guide me in the right direction here.
My question is, after (glass) bead blasting these small parts what is the next step? I was told by one to just blow em off with air, and prime em up, another said use a 400 grit them prime em? WTF? Needless to say, I'm a mechanic, not a bodyman, but I do want to do them right. Can anyone help me out here as far as proceedure, what type of primer. Most of these small pieces will be black, and not bodycolor,(excluding piece in pic of course).
Any help at all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks all

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torredcuda · « **Reply #1 on:** November 25, 2005 - 06:31:55 AM »

Quote from: R/T hedkace on November 24, 2005 - 08:31:06 PM

How depressing, right now it's 18 degrees out, 4 days off from work, all the motivation in the world to get going on my R/T, and nothing I can do about it.Tomorrows forecast.....F'n snow. I have to look at her resting under a cover for another LONG, miserable winter.

I feel for ya as I was there not too many years ago with mine.

As far as prep goes you will get different opinions as to how to do it but basically you need to get rid of all the rust,if any.I noticed what looks like rust on the bottom of the rad support piece and you need to either keep blasting or treat with an acid to remove it all.Once you have clean metal some use a metal prep to further clean the metal others just prime but either way you need to prime as soon as you can as rust starts to form very quickly on bare metal.Also avoid handling the parts with bare hands as oils from your skin can cause rust.Most primers need a slightly rough surface to adhere to which is why some suggest 400 sanding as the bead leaves a nice finish but fairly smooth.Another option is to use a red scotchbrite pad which makes it easier to get into all the tight nooks and crannys.Another concern is what type of primer are you using?Some laquer adn other (spray can) primers do not hold back moisture and will rust right thru unless topcated.Most shops will also not like to paint over a home prime job.Hope I helped and didn`t confuse you more!

R/T hedkace · « **Reply #2 on:** November 25, 2005 - 02:20:38 PM »

Thanks a ton Torred, I appreciate the info. You were a definite help.
Maybe I'll just hold off with anymore of my "expert" bodywork, and leave it to somone who knows WTF their doing. I'm probably doing more harm than good trying to save a buck, and doing as much as I can.
I think it's very important to know when to throw in the towel, and my face has been bloodied up for way too long now. Whatever that means?? Thanks again for your help

torredcuda · « **Reply #3 on:** November 25, 2005 - 05:55:11 PM »

I don`t mean to scare you away from doing any prep work but like anything you just want to do it right rather than have to redo it later.Do you have access to a compressor and spray gun?If not you can buy Prevail bottles which are just compressed air canisters with a jar attached and work well for spraying small parts.Find your local auto body paint store with a helpfull counter person and he`ll help you get what you need for metal prep and a good two part epoxy primer.The more you can do yourself the more $$ you`ll save and any questions we`ll try and help ya!

R/T hedkace · « **Reply #4 on:** November 26, 2005 - 12:18:25 PM »

You right Torred, I'm just a bit frustrated. It's only "normal" right?
Actually, because of everyones help keeping me motivaded, I got off my @&&, and put the rear end back up today,(even though it was snowing out, and freezing). After the first ten minutes I wasn't even cold,(either that, or I just went numb), but it felt good.
Got a quick question though. I've got the typical rust that is starting to protrude at the rear frame rails(see pics). How is this best taken care of. Definitely beyond my capabilities, but I am curious as to what I'm looking at, as far as fixing it goes.
Thanks all

Grancoupe · « **Reply #5 on:** November 26, 2005 - 01:54:32 PM »

Ever consider picking up one of those car tents from the mail order catalogs? I've seem them for a couple of hundred bucks and would keep the elements off the car. Would also allow you to be able to work on the thing in the winter.

hobo · « **Reply #6 on:** November 26, 2005 - 02:24:35 PM »

Dont be afraid to do all the little parts. Just Metal prep them and scotchbrite them/ I would than use an epoxy primer to seal them. You dont have to have a pro shop do all the little stuff if you havr the tools and time to do it yourself. Well alittle knowlege just to be dangerous wouldnt hurt. And as far as all the small stuff belive me the painter or top body guys will not be doing this to the small parts. This would be left up to the shop helpers and kids.

moparnut · « **Reply #7 on:** November 26, 2005 - 03:18:05 PM »

Quote from: hobo on November 26, 2005 - 02:24:35 PM

Dont be afraid to do all the little parts. Just Metal prep them and scotchbrite them/� I would than use an epoxy primer to seal them. You dont have to have a pro shop do all the little stuff if you havr the tools and time to do it yourself. Well alittle knowlege just to be dangerous wouldnt hurt. And as far as all the small stuff belive me the painter or top body guys will not be doing this to the small parts. This would be left up to the shop helpers and kids.

Agreed,Best stuff on the market is Valspar 2k primer(primer,sealer.etcher and filler all in one)Not cheap though but is well worth it.I think I paid 130 bucks a gallon

R/T hedkace · « **Reply #8 on:** November 26, 2005 - 08:45:17 PM »

Thanks guys, I will put into action all your advice for sure. I definitely feel a bit more comfortable doing these pieces now. I'll look into that Valspar 2k primer also.
I just want to do it right,(know just enough to be dangerous) Too funny. We joke about "those guys" all the time at work, I DONT WANT TO BE "THAT GUY", and hopefully I wont be.
GranC, yes I have looked into the outside enclosures, and I'm looking into a rotiserrie right now also.(anyone close to Massachusetts want to sell one, or rent one out for a while?). Just thought I'd ask, nothing to lose.
I may very soon be able to bring my R/T into my friends 2 car(heated) garage (true friend, and true mopar guy). So I may be lovin life pretty soon. Dont know how that is going to pan out though, so that is why I'm holding out on the enclosure for now.
Thanks again for all your help fellas

JCWCuda · « **Reply #9 on:** November 27, 2005 - 08:55:39 PM »

RT where abouts in mass are you , I live just north of Albany NY and i am working on plans to build a Rotisore

R/T hedkace · « **Reply #10 on:** November 28, 2005 - 05:58:29 PM »

JCW, I'm in Worcester Ma.
Have you got a price on how much all the meterials cost you to make your rotiserrie yet?
I still haven't figured out which route I'm going to take due to no garage right now

JCWCuda · « **Reply #11 on:** November 29, 2005 - 08:42:41 AM »

I haven't got the prices just yet , i'm waiting for my brother in law to back to work (at the steel shop)
I just pulled mine in the Shop yesterday and hope to start tearing down in the next week or so

Author Topic: a little prep help? (Read 1899 times)

R/T hedkace

a little prep help?

torredcuda

Re: a little prep help?

R/T hedkace

Re: a little prep help?

torredcuda

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R/T hedkace

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Grancoupe

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hobo

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moparnut

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R/T hedkace

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JCWCuda

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R/T hedkace

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JCWCuda

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