Leaf spring relocators- need traction

[ACE_5150]

Anyone have a good resource for leaf spring relocators? I checked summit and I dont think I want the type that weld in. I heard there is a company that has the one the bolt in place of the originals, but move the springs 3". I'm trying to do all i can to get this thing to hook up. No luck so far. Oh, yeah, anf it looks like when I move the leafs, the rear anti-sway bar will no longer fit. Is there anything I can do about that?

I really love what Chip Foose does with these muscle cars on Overhaulin too. They look good with those 20" rims  on  em tucked in the fender wells. I was wanting to go with 20s but my friend said they'll never hook up, and tha I should stick with 18s. Any1 have an opinion on that?

SO far for traction i have: moved the battery to the trunk, removed front sway bar, running a dakota V-6 starter, installed MP HD leaf springs, Summit drag shocks (front 90/10, rear 20/80), and am about to install a pinion snubber. I have 275/60s on the back and this thing just eats the tires alive through 2nd. Its a 360 sb, w/ 3800 TCI Stall, and 3.91 gears. ya know, I'm about to put a 412 stroker in it , but I'm scared that I'll just be wasting HP in tire smoke. ya-ya, I know a 4link would fix the problem but I just can't afford all that, and tubbing is pretty much out of the question. I want it to appear (mostly) stock. There's gotta be some gurus out there who know how to make an E-body stick!!

[ChallengerVert]

You can only move the springs in about an inch on each side.  Any more than that and the rear frame rails get in the way.  Meaning that if you want to move the springs in 3 inches you will have to tub it and relocate the frame rails.

Run a B Body rear end and move the springs in an inch.  You will easily get 28 inch tall and 12 1/2 inch wide tire to fit in a Challenger wheel well.

This is where I got mine from:  http://members.aol.com/doctordiff/

 

[Grancoupe]

Gotta ask what tire are you running. Not the size but the actual tire. If its a road coarse tire its gonna be too hard a compound to grip. You may need to consider the right tire for the right job.The pinion snubber will help alot. Let it have some space between it and the floor rail it hits. Keep an eye on that part of the floor board. If its getting its but kicked you may need to weld in a reinforcment plate so you dont start cracking the floor of the car. It happened to me... If you're really stuck on making your tires work you may need to lower the tire pressure a bit. Somewhere aroung 20 lbs. You'll need to play around with it. The lower you go the better chance you hae of not blowing the tires loose at the start but you give up speed at the top end. Light to light, I would keep them low. On the track you have to play with it. Also, another test is do a few launches on a clean surface and look at the track marks. When you start seeing a light area in the middle of the track mark you went to far and the walls of the tire are folding over and buckling the center of the tire inward. Have some fun tuning this thing. Its what its all about... Good Luck

[ACE_5150]

Well based on the fact of how hard the tires go up in smoke, I dont think tire compound will do anything to help. I take that back, maybe it will keep them from spinning through 2nd gear. Doesnt FIX the problem tho. Thanks for the info on the floor, I'll go ahead and re-inforce that while I have the car apart and up on jacks. Alot easier to do it now, with the rear end out.

With the dunlops I have on it ( 275/60 r 15) it is putting down 10" of rubber which only sacrifices 1" from the total tire width. My main concern is getting traction on the street. I can hook up on the track w/ 10" slicks, but lets face it, the track is perfect conditions you'll never even come close to seeing on the street. It's embarrassing when you get beat by a mustang that runs 14s on the street cause your slipping tire for the 1st 300ft.

[Chryco Psycho]

the first step is SS springs with the front clamped & a pinion snubber , the next step I would ttry  is the old leaf link with an upper bar from the diff usually ona 3-4" tall mount straight forward to the frame rail creating a 4 link , finally I know a set of 32 " ladderbars will hokk , I was pulling the front tires on the street in my duster with ladderbars

[EVIL72]

 I've never known Dunlops to be great for traction. I had some 10 inch wide ones on my old 70 Challenger R/T 383 and it could easily blow them away at will. I'd look into some good soft compound tires. Also depending on your offset you should be able to get 295/50/15's on the back of that car. That will give ya a bit more bite.
 What about Cal tracs and mono leafs in the rear. I've seen more than a few cars running these and they hook up HARD!

[Chryco Psycho]

I installed a set of the slide-a-links on a Duster , the 60' time was traction limited to 1.72 , after the bars the 60 ' time was 1.72

[Grancoupe]

Hey Ace,
I gotta tell ya. The difference between tires is huge. I wouldn't underestimate it. I had a set of Yokahama's (touring style) tires. They were great for turns and stuff but you had to go real easy on the straights. I put a set of drag radials from BFGoodrich and the car got a little loose on the curves but the thing launches great on the street or strip. GOt it down to the 1.70's at the track. Suspension is just stock with a pinion snubber. Back of the car is sitting a little on the low side for weight displacement. Batt in the back too.
Wat is the compound rating on the side of the tire? That will give you a better idea of the hardness of the tires.
Have you heard about flipoing the front shackles upside down? It sets the center of gravity up higher into the car. Increases weight transferrr to the back and lowers the car about 3/4 inch. Found it in a Mopar article and it works.