Author Topic: TORSION BAR question  (Read 1929 times)

Offline pandamarie

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TORSION BAR question
« on: January 18, 2006 - 04:14:38 PM »
Is anyone here running 1inch torsion bars on thier challenger or cuda? If so how is the ride and handling? also if you are running the 1inch Tbars what size sway bars are you using? Im getting tired of hitting dips and tearing holes in my milodon 7 qt oil pan.
Thanks
1938 packard 120
1948 lincoln convertible coupe(1 of 16)
69 charger
70 challenger R/T 440 6 pac
71 challenger 340 R/T 4 speed
2-1961 nash metropolitans
forgive wifes 75 vette
2002 dakota 4.7




Offline Killer_Mopar

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Re: TORSION BAR question
« Reply #1 on: January 18, 2006 - 07:46:24 PM »
I would like to know also, I plan on running either .96" or 1" T-bars with front and rear sway bars.....
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Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: TORSION BAR question
« Reply #2 on: January 18, 2006 - 10:45:54 PM »
the ride gets a lot harder with very little extra diameter , I have not tried the 1" diameter bars but with 1.22 nothing moved but the tire sidewall , 1 " woul dbe the  max I would use

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Offline jvike

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Re: TORSION BAR question
« Reply #3 on: January 18, 2006 - 11:59:32 PM »
I talked to a guy once that has 1", he said he didn't recommend it, as Chryco said, nothing moves.
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Offline pandamarie

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Re: TORSION BAR question
« Reply #4 on: January 19, 2006 - 09:11:42 AM »
Thats just what I want, nothing to move but sidewall. ripping a hole in your oil pan at 110mph isnt any fun and sloppy handling is even worse.
1938 packard 120
1948 lincoln convertible coupe(1 of 16)
69 charger
70 challenger R/T 440 6 pac
71 challenger 340 R/T 4 speed
2-1961 nash metropolitans
forgive wifes 75 vette
2002 dakota 4.7

Offline Super Blue 72

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Re: TORSION BAR question
« Reply #5 on: January 19, 2006 - 09:17:36 AM »
I guess it depends also on what your car will be doing most of the time. 

Even if you want to autocross you want some suspension travel as it'll help soak up the bumps/road imperfections.  Otherwise your tires will lose traction when they "hop" off of any little bump.  And if those bumps are on a corner, that might mean your car may get in a tailspin.

Also less travel in the suspension due to stiffer torsion bars will transfer more "shock" to the rest of the suspension components and increase wear.

Just my 2 cents. :)
1972 Dodge Challenger Rallye 340, AT, Code TB3=Super Blue, SBD=8/17/1971.  Yes, a Rallye without the fender louvers from the factory because of the body side molding option.

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Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: TORSION BAR question
« Reply #6 on: January 19, 2006 - 12:45:47 PM »
try the 1" bars & let me know how they feel
$129 is not a lot to risk

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Offline crcarch

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Re: TORSION BAR question
« Reply #7 on: January 23, 2006 - 07:45:38 AM »
You don't say what diameter you have now.  FYI - A 1970 w/ a 440 uses .92" dia and a '71 w/ a 340 uses .90" dia.

I'd say .96" if you have a big block and .92" if you have a small block, since the largest I can find that the factory used on the 340 was .90" (I'd assume that's an AAR or T/A model) 

I have a '73 which I'm planning to upgrade from .86" dia. to .96". My car was a small block, so I'm going one step above the heavy-duty size for the big block based on an article I read in the Feb. '06 issue of Mopar Muscle.  They took a '67 Coronet through a front-end rebuild and got it to pull .92g average! Not bad.  They didn't list what the baseline was, but I can imagine it wasn't too good.  They swapped the .92" dia. bars for .96" and recommended not using the 1" because of harsh ride.  I'm guessing that the E-body is lighter than the 67 Coronet, so the ride would be even worse when using the 1" bars.
00/===\00 73 Challenger 440-4V/AT  8/--+--\8 09 Ram 1500  0o\==/o0 05 Crossfire Roadster OO(#####SRT)OO 10 Challenger