Do Not cheap out on machine work, stick with a "blueprint" style shop, PERIOD !
Budget for, and be prepared to pay the extra from the outset. Especially to rework the iron heads, thats why the relative popularity of aftermarket stuff vrs. the cost.
Use the KISS formula "Keep It Simple Stupid", remember these engines have basically been around since the late 50's, many tried, true, and validated approachs refined in the last 50 yrs. Sounds like you really only want 425-475 H.P, easily "do"able with basically stock stuff and heads.
The following are my opinions only, no wars wanted
ANY year 440 core, prefer "steel crank", "0" balance stuff, any "cast crank" stuff fine also, but remember the external balance for your flywheel.
-Target < 6,000 rpm shift point, actual 9.9/10:1 W/ this cam(230's) and 92 Octane @ 2000 ft elevation, drop .2 per 1000 ft elev.(remember, traffic tie-ups)
-Stock LY rods W/arp bolts OK, or,
I-beam cheapies from "various preferred", may be more cost effective, plus allow switch to .990" Chebby Pins(weight, and free power)
-Main Studs, MUST align Hone afterward, (blueprint shop), .003" vertical clrc W/ Clevitte full gr. only
-Hypereu"junk"tic F.T. Pistons @ 2.02-2.06" comp Dist-OK,
Prefer "cheapy" 4032 alloy forged FT @ same Dist., various Manu's, all ~4-6 cc flycut volume.
1.094" pins OK, Pinfit @.0008" in Piston, > .001" crush in stock rod, or,
if full float use .001" Rod and Piston W/aftermarket Rods using the .990" Chebby Pins. ( I ain't a "fan" of the quench style KB's on this style engine, ain't needed for this IMHO, no wars wanted)
-Moly rings as per Piston, BRUSHS /cork-wipe ! (total seals ain't gonna do SQUAT ! lest we start a hole new thread on that alone), let it LEAK a bit ! SO WHAT ! Personal preference.
Anybody seen what those cylinders do @ temp/load ? NOT ME, however,
Anybody ever heated their honing Oil, and honed a Block @ 220 deg F and breathed those vapours ?
WE DID ! Like I said, Total Seals don't do SQUAT, unless you do that ! IMHO.
-USE a T/plate(blueprint shop again)
-Mock-up, and deck block "equal & square" for 0 - .020 downhole @TDC, depends on above piston used.
-Rod Clrc. @ .0025: vertical, Clevitte CB527 "P" brg's for stock rod, "H" for aftermarket.
-1/2" HEMI oiling mod.
-HEMI resto 6 qt. pan and Pickup, add slosh baffle if not present from MOPAR.
-Wndage Tray
-High Volume pump, Melling. Above clrc's will provide idle pres @ 40 psi, rpm @ relief usually @ 70-75 psi HOT using good 10W40 Pennsylvania grade motor Oil. Stay away from "store bought", on sale "goopy-lube" ! Very high in parafins as a filler.
DO ADD "GM", yes "GM", "OES" to the "Penns" stuff, even them, are getting lower in metals for their additive pkg's.
-MOPAR 284/484 is fine, there's better out there, no argueing wanted (be a thread by itself), but this is "KISS" , it'll work fine ! Put in @ no later than 106-7 deg., shift @ 57-5800/6000 when 'ya miss.
-Cloyes
-Heavy duty "thick wall" stock rockers OK, adjustable aftermarket preferred for when 'ya miss with you're stick !(actual 1.5 ratio), depends on valve hts. attained with headwork for lifter preload.
Pretty "basic' build so far ain't it ?
Now for the Heads
-Any later casting, 906 OK, but 346 & 452 preferred(remember the lift, we ain't racing, well OK, maybe mid 12's, but that ain't RACING !)
-GOOD QUALITY rebuild, HONE-FIT valves @.001"/.0014", a MUST to maintain seat widths.
- 2.08/1.74 OK, big valves OK too, exh. first if you do !, but not absolutely required.
FOR STOCK VALVE SIZES ONLY;
- Intake 75 throat blended into port bowl, 60/45/30/15, 60 @ .100"/.035"/ ~ .070/"touch to clean", seat @ .015" from edge of valve.
-Intake Valve @ 45/30 backcut
-Trick here is DON'T sink the valves in the chamber for the 30 ! Retain nominal Valve dimension "out the head up top", with a stock valve length !, without cutting the crap outa the tips to get back down in range. (need "puss" castings)
-Exhaust Valves @ 50 Deg seat, 40 backcut
-Exh seats @ 80 cutter/65/50/30, blend & widen port only, with steep as possible short(nothing there anyways, but it'll find it's own way out under pressure.
-Do whatever to the Intake & exh. port window openings to straighten & cleanup, bigger, not really required, but don't hurt anything.
- 110# seat pressure on springs, correct rate for cam.
-Add a decent Intake and 750 carb for the RPM
-Tune accordingly.
** If ya can't find good enough head castings(sunk valves), go get some somewhere !
Remember, GOOD iron heads, done well, will dink you a "K" or more, with porting. Hence the popularity of aftermarket aluminum stuff, and rightly so.
But if you go Aluminum, add up to 3/4 point of compression to above to compensate for the parasitic heat loss in the combustion process.
Just my opinion, like I said, no wars wanted. 440 engines will do what their "APPOSED 'TA" when people pay attention. BASICALLY, Just GET ACTUALLY CLOSE to 10:1, more for aluminum, NOT THEORETICALLY, build, "Blueprint" the bottom end very well, and get a "pro" head guy.
"1", even "1.1" Horsepower per cubic inch is well attainable with a Hydraulic cam.
Hope this gives you some ideas, just my opinion, hope others chime in here Bob out.
