More questions on drums to disc....

News:

  • Home
  • Help
  • Chat
  • Login
  • Register

    • « previous next »
    Pages: [1]

    Author Topic: More questions on drums to disc....  (Read 901 times)

    Offline T-Rob

    • Jr. Member
    • **
    • Posts: 22
    More questions on drums to disc....
    « on: March 16, 2006 - 08:38:02 PM »
     :1zhelp:  I have a 72 Challenger which originally came with manual drums up front.  Like many of you guys I'd like to convert those drums to disc and I'm aware of several companies that offer kits such as Wilwood, P.S.T., Year One etc from reading some of the other posts on this subject.   So here are my questions.
    1.  Is it better to upgrade to power brakes along with the upgrade to the disc?  And if so, should I just use a stock power brake booster and master cylinder or should I use something provided by the manufacture of whatever kit I end up buying?

    2.  Is it better to look for a kit that will work with the original spindles?   Or should I look for a kit that not only upgrades the brake itself, but also the spindle?

    3.  Whats the latest views and opinions on those kits out there that are available?   

    Alot of what I'm getting at here is if things work out better if one were to buy all new parts from top to bottom from a single manufacture vs. trying to mix and match parts and components from venders and original stock parts??   On one hand cost is a major factor in making my decision.  But on the other hand, I much prefer to just bolt up new parts rather than having to monkey with modifying or tweaking things to make everything work properly as I’m sure most of you would agree.  GO MOPAR!   
    Logged
    T-Rob
    72 Challenger


    Offline Chryco Psycho

    • Administrator
    • C-C.com Guru
    • *****
    • Posts: 36620
    • 70 Challenger R/T SE 70 tube Chassis Cuda now sold
    Re: More questions on drums to disc....
    « Reply #1 on: March 17, 2006 - 01:47:23 AM »
    the cheapest upgrade would be to use the drum spindle & adapt the Scarebird disc conversion
     SSBC has a good system too
     no need for power with disc in fact my fav is manual disc brakes but you do need a different master with larger fluid capacity for disc & it cannot have a rsidual pressure valve in th esystem , most drum systems have residual pressure valaves in the master 
    Logged

    Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

    Offline ShelbyDogg

    • Sr. Resident
    • ******
    • Posts: 5007
    Re: More questions on drums to disc....
    « Reply #2 on: March 22, 2006 - 05:48:09 PM »
    If you find a 73-76 A-Body, use everything: spindles, rotors, calipers, master cylinder and proportioning valve. Some of those aftermarket kits use unique parts that cant be bought from auto parts stores. ie. bearings, seals, pads, rotors etc.
    Rob
    Logged
    Rob

    3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

    My Pace Car restoration thread:
    http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0

    Offline Steve

    • Full Member
    • ***
    • Posts: 578
    • I Love Welding!
    Re: More questions on drums to disc....
    « Reply #3 on: March 24, 2006 - 08:27:01 AM »
     :iagree:

    The only problem is that the 73 - 75 A-body calipers have a smaller bore than the 76 A-body or 76 - 79 B-body calipers. This is only an issue if you are going with a manual brake setup.

    Consider NOT going with power brakes. Use a 15/16" MC from an a-body or MP and use the 2.75" bore calipers from late B or any E. E-body calipers are pin-type whereas some B and A bodies use slide type. Just get the corresponding caliper bracket. The 73 - 76 A bodies use the smaller 10.87 rotor while 76-79 B and R bodies use the larger 11.75" units. Just get the corresponding caliper bracket.

    AVOID 70 - 72 rotors as they are two-piece units and are very expensive.
    Logged
    Pages: [1]
    « previous next »