Looked at an E-BODY tonite...........here's the usual question......

[BIGSHCLUNK]

 
I just thought I'd get that out of the way first! It was a long day an I left the the camera on my desk...(dumb ass me)
I looked at a 73 Barracuda after work tonite. Guy turned down 5G'S for this car, it's the usual how much story....
This car is a total resto project BUT doers run and drive!! Originally a 318 now has a 400 w/Edlebrock high rise and carb. I have no clue what the 400 is out of, owner claims was bored 30 over. Probobly out of grandpa's Newport! Otherwise looks stock. Automatic, owner claims pozi. Motor shakes like Tina Turner (sorry Tina). Needs trunk floor (already tin riveted in). Tin (riveted)on drivers floor/holes on passenger side. Rot by upper rail toward the rear of the hood hinges, but no holes by the back window (but some rust). 
Has sport hood and a Year One lower valance (sticker still on it/bolted on whardware store bolts). Has 14" magnums and a GM spoiler bolted to a deck lid that has more mud than the bottom of the Mississippi River. Typical bubbly bubbly on quarters. The car was originally bronze, doors were gold, now it's blue (generic) and second time around. looks like the first blue was E5. Has te hokey sticks and 340 badges. Dash cracked, console is there, seats need recover/pad. Stoner in windshield and owner..... when I saw him with the car my first thought was hillbilly hotrod!   
Has new dual exhaust/aftermarket radiator/distributor. Hoses hacked off the heater core and just left there. Accell coil/camaro fan shroud-zip tied on/exhaust cutouts in rear valance panel/cracked grill. Some of the codes on the fender tag I do not know - but somebody here does I'm sure. Bumpers need-rechroming. Dont know if all gauges/lights work.

C36 J54 M21 M25 R11 V6W
CK6 U A51 B41 C16 C56
CK6 A6XW 000 329 470155
E44 D34 BH23 G3B408966

Fender tag and Vin match but tag was rusty, I can not totally verify all tag numbers. I could only spit on my thumb and rub!

I gotta call this guy real soon  please!

[360 'CUDA]

I don't think so

The 400 swap is a pretty lame deal. The rust is 10 times worse on the firewall, trunk extensions, wheelwells and everywhere you can't see and the guys a scum so how high do you think he will go?

I just don't see rusty BH cars with round tailights going that high but maybe I'm wrong... 

[Cuda Cody]

It's your call, but I say start with the absolute BEST body and least amount of rust you can afford to.  It's not a BS code either and he has done a lot of things that would need to be undone in my mind.

Don't let him rush you in to making a decision.  Only you know your skill level and ability and if it is the right car for you.  If they cost less to buy, they will normally cost more to fix.

Is a 73 Barracuda the car you have always dreamed of?  Do you have what it takes (time AND money) to do the repairs?

There you go.... my 

[Street_Challenged73]

I'd personally probably turn down the car, since:
1. He apparently wants a lot of money for something that isn't really all that nice to start with.
2. It's quite a fair share of money for a BH car with rust issues as you've stated.

In order for the car to be a fair deal, I'd have to say the price would need to be right around $2,000.00.  The amount of rust "repair" you've stated leads me to think quite a bit more unseen areas will be rusted/rotted out, as 360Cuda stated.  I thought my car was completely rust-free on the floor pans, but further teardown and sandblasting proved otherwise.  I suppose if you're desperately looking for an E-body you could go for it, but educate him on the price of rusty cars, even E-bodies.

[MyMopar]

RUN AWAY.  The guy is ripping you off.  Big block E-bodies are somewhat desirable and he thinks with the 400 he can score big $$$. IMO, it isn't worth 5k, sounds like a 2-4k car to me.

Is the interior good (and I mean good) and all there.  Interiors are a big expense.  Seat recovering and foam can set you back $1k.  Then door panels (finding good used ones) can run from $150 to $500.  Headliner is another $100. If you could do the wrok yourself, no problem, if not, plan to add another $600 for someone else to do it.

Is the trim all there and intact?  Does the trim looked hacked?  Trim is starting to get crazy money now.

How much rust is there, really?  Qtrs, floor panels, wheel house and qtr extensions, fender patch panels, these aren't too pricey per say, however the cost to do the repair is.  If you can do it, then your cost is down, except for time and consumables. If you've done repairs in the past you know what you are getting into, if not then you will be scared a bit once you get started.

Oh, I almost forgot, electrical.  Is the harness good or are they all spliced and hacked?  Big money here to do it right, I think harnesses start around $350 and up.

You can use all this as info to base your buying price.  If you really want the car, give him the info and say the car is worth $2500 to me, sound fair.  Then work from there but DON'T get bullied into buying it.  Leave your number and walk away.

Good luck.  Also figure on what some minor repairs will cost you and see if you can find a car in better condition for the difference.  I mean if you are going to sink another $3500 into the car to make it "good enough", perhaps you can find a decent car for $8500.  I think you know where I'm going with that.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

THANKS GUYS!!! I felt the same way about the car (piece of $hit-Good parts car maybe). I guess I needed a little mental backup!!! 

[GoodysGotaCuda]

Sounds like a lotta money for a car thats had a lot of 'mickey mouse' work done to it. For wiw, a year and a half ago i paid $7900 for my car and ive yet to touch the paint and interior. Hada bone stock 318 2bbl/904/8 3/4" drivetrain