Author Topic: 318 Manifold Selection  (Read 1332 times)

Offline Theskrich

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318 Manifold Selection
« on: July 16, 2006 - 11:08:42 AM »
What I have:  318, .30 over, internally balanced, cast aluminum pistons, small port heads w/minor port work 1.88 1.50s, lunati vodoo 60402,

Question: 1} What intake should I be running on my 318?
I already have a Eddie Rpm Airgap but My buddy mike says ill take a big hit in low end torque and high end power because of the port mismatch. 
There are very few manifolds still in production for the small port heads that I could find. 
The three i found are    Mopar Performance M1 Intake Manifolds,Edelbrock Performer Intake Manifolds, Weiand Action+Plus Intake Manifolds
But I dont like any of those because of the heat crossover(could be blocked by siderail gaskets), and the lack of airgap
Question 2} Will there be a noticable loss of throttle response and power by using my rpm airgap versus a small port manifold?

Also the Manifold is not fitting right.  It lines up with the bolt holes perfect with no gaskets.  When I put the felpro gaskets (about .65") on and tried to get the bolts started you can only get one side to start and the other siderail is just to high. Its not just me as several knowledgable people have confirmed that its not going to work without some form of machining. I called the machinest that built it for me  and he siad grind the bolt holes with a diegrinder to get the bolts started and it should pull itself down into place.  Personally i think it needs about .30" or more taken off of the siderails to get it to fit.(or a diffferent manifold)
Question 3} any sugestions for the above situation if i am to stick with this manifold


Thanks ALL




Offline GoodysGotaCuda

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Re: 318 Manifold Selection
« Reply #1 on: July 16, 2006 - 11:24:02 AM »
Were the heads milled at all? If so, you'll have to mill the intake, or the intake face of the heads to get the intake to sit correctly on the heads.

I wouldn't say you would take a 'huge' hit in flow due to the port mismatch. But it would be noticeable when compared to the right port heads/intake. If you wanna sell that airgap, let me know, i have a j-headed 318 that i'd like to lose the exh crossover on and get the little cooler intake charge over my performer rpm  :grinyes:

As far as finding a small port intake with no heat crossover...off the top of my head, i can't say i've seen one. And don't forget a decent stall converter or with that cam it will just walk off the line. It's gonna want to get up in the rpm range and go.
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Offline Theskrich

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Re: 318 Manifold Selection
« Reply #2 on: July 16, 2006 - 11:41:33 AM »
Nope, The heads were not milled, just cleaned up along with the deck

Sorry Mike, Ive never ran the intake so it will get returned to summit if I end up with a small port intake,  By the way, Awesome car, I gotta say you were part of the reason for me staying with my 318(other than keeping the original mill in it).

And as for the converter I have a Hughes Performance Street Master 2500 Stall.
« Last Edit: July 16, 2006 - 12:36:49 PM by Theskrich »

Offline GoodysGotaCuda

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Re: 318 Manifold Selection
« Reply #3 on: July 16, 2006 - 06:03:15 PM »
Nope, The heads were not milled, just cleaned up along with the deck

Sorry Mike, Ive never ran the intake so it will get returned to summit if I end up with a small port intake,  By the way, Awesome car, I gotta say you were part of the reason for me staying with my 318(other than keeping the original mill in it).

And as for the converter I have a Hughes Performance Street Master 2500 Stall.

Well the Airgap inner-bolts (meaning on the insides of the runners) are very, very tight to get started/torqued. Just by nature of the intake. You running 9/16th heads on your bolts?, my arps i believe are 7/16s, or possibly 3/8ths, i dont recall and will give you a little more room in there. Have any pictures of how it's sitting and not lining up on the heads?

Thanks for the comment on my car, its the original 318 we rebuilt with some freebie parts. It's doing alright for what it is, i just put a 9 1/2" dynamic converter that flashes about 3,800rpm, with my 3.91s and low gear set in the 904, she 'outta scoot off the line now  :grinyes: Looking to dip into 13s come friday, it's been extremely hot however, lately the air has been as if running at 6,000ft  :eek4:. Regardless, if i dip into 13s at 6,000ft in a 3,600lb 318 powered car...i'm still lookin pretty good  :2thumbs: keep at it, you havea pretty good sounding combo, more cam than i have. I'm interested to hear how it does. Personally, i'd just run the airgap if you can get it to bolt on correctly and run-it. you will get some turbulance, but i have seen guys port out stock 318 heads to 360 size ports. Pretty much gasket match the ports to 360 size and that will help you out as far as turbulance between port sizes
Build Page: Goody's 'Cuda Build Page
1976 Dodge Warlock
1972 Barracuda - 5.7 Hemi + T56 Magnum

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Offline dimples

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Re: 318 Manifold Selection
« Reply #4 on: July 16, 2006 - 06:20:42 PM »
Porting small port heads to big port gaskets works nice, I do it all the time. As far as getting the bolts started, are you using the cork manifold ends? They are too thick sometimes, and hang the manifold up. If you plan on doing more to your engine later, I would keep the airgap, and port your lil heads, a small port manifold wont do you any good when you get big port heads, LOL.
One trick I have, is getting some 3/8" body bolts, the ones that are tapered on the end, but still threaded? They work nice for lining trick stuff up.
I have a half truckload of 2bbl steel gaskets, if you decide to go the small port route, I'll mail you a pair. :2thumbs:

If you plan on some mods to your heads, in the near future, the manifold, just "bolted on", wont run THAT BAD.............

Offline GoodysGotaCuda

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Re: 318 Manifold Selection
« Reply #5 on: July 16, 2006 - 06:22:55 PM »
Porting small port heads to big port gaskets works nice, I do it all the time. As far as getting the bolts started, are you using the cork manifold ends? They are too thick sometimes, and hang the manifold up. If you plan on doing more to your engine later, I would keep the airgap, and port your lil heads, a small port manifold wont do you any good when you get big port heads, LOL.
One trick I have, is getting some 3/8" body bolts, the ones that are tapered on the end, but still threaded? They work nice for lining trick stuff up.
I have a half truckload of 2bbl steel gaskets, if you decide to go the small port route, I'll mail you a pair. :2thumbs:

If you plan on some mods to your heads, in the near future, the manifold, just "bolted on", wont run THAT BAD.............


Good call on the cork gaskets, i forgot all about it. I do not run ANY front or back cork gaskets. It is pretty common procedure for us small block guys to do that. Dont forget to pull the locating pins out of the block. See how it lines up with those pins/no front gaskets. That could solve the issue, just run a thick bead of silicone on the front/back and your good to go  :2thumbs:
Build Page: Goody's 'Cuda Build Page
1976 Dodge Warlock
1972 Barracuda - 5.7 Hemi + T56 Magnum

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Offline dimples

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Re: 318 Manifold Selection
« Reply #6 on: July 16, 2006 - 06:26:40 PM »
I am a silicone hater, I use the stock squishy gasket material they used from the factory............but am almost out.   :'( :2thumbs:

Offline GoodysGotaCuda

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Re: 318 Manifold Selection
« Reply #7 on: July 16, 2006 - 06:42:52 PM »
I am a silicone hater, I use the stock squishy gasket material they used from the factory............but am almost out.   :'( :2thumbs:


the 'Right Stuff' silicone in the cheese can, little pricey...but has yet to fail me  :cooldancing:
Build Page: Goody's 'Cuda Build Page
1976 Dodge Warlock
1972 Barracuda - 5.7 Hemi + T56 Magnum

Wheel & Tire Specs:Link

Offline Theskrich

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Re: 318 Manifold Selection
« Reply #8 on: July 16, 2006 - 07:53:12 PM »
Quote
You running 9/16th heads on your bolts?

3/8 arp
Quote
Pretty much gasket match the ports to 360 size and that will help you out as far as turbulance between port sizes


I just got the motor back from the machine shop and its assembled to a long block. I dont feel like taking the heads back in. That and im still hurting from the bill (1300 in labor).

I had already pulled the locator pins and was using silicone when i tried to install it.  I can start 2 bolts on one side then I shimmy the manifold to take up all the slack in the bolt holes but the opposing sides bolt holes are still to high for bolts to be started

Quote
If you plan on some mods to your heads, in the near future, the manifold, just "bolted on", wont run THAT BAD.............

???????

Here some decent numbers where made with a small port manifold and similar motor http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/155_0312_teen/index.html

Offline dimples

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Re: 318 Manifold Selection
« Reply #9 on: July 16, 2006 - 08:07:34 PM »
I meant bolting your RPM to the small port heads, for now...........

Sounds to me like your heads or block was milled, or you ran into Edelbrock quality controll.

Offline Theskrich

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Re: 318 Manifold Selection
« Reply #10 on: July 16, 2006 - 08:23:28 PM »
Quote
Sounds to me like your heads or block was milled, or you ran into Edelbrock quality controll.

Could be, the old torker 340 that was on it still fits.

Edit: after looking at the torker today I noticed that the bolt holes in that were ground out
« Last Edit: July 18, 2006 - 08:10:03 PM by Theskrich »

Offline Theskrich

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Re: 318 Manifold Selection
« Reply #11 on: July 17, 2006 - 04:52:25 PM »
Hey Chryco, what say ye?   :feedback:

Offline rallyechall

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Re: 318 Manifold Selection
« Reply #12 on: July 17, 2006 - 07:47:53 PM »
If you can find a Holley Street Dominator, put this intake on. I still prefer it to some of the others. No longer produced, but a great find.

Offline dimples

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Re: 318 Manifold Selection
« Reply #13 on: July 18, 2006 - 01:56:20 AM »
Edelbrock made a torker 318 too.  :2thumbs: