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    Author Topic: kill switch  (Read 1982 times)

    Offline OUTLAW

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    kill switch
    « on: July 05, 2006 - 10:23:11 PM »
    anyone have any ideas on how to hook up a kill switch and still have your volt/amp guage work AND kill the car when needed?

    I tried using a relay to break current to the alt (both sides) and the ignition relay and even the coil directly .
    personally I don't understand why the coil didnt do it ...LOL
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    Offline ambitions2

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    Re: kill switch
    « Reply #1 on: July 06, 2006 - 10:00:54 AM »
    I saw a guy in Carlisle do this on his Ebody.  However he used it to connect the circuit.  What he had was a switch that he had within reaching distance when he was sitting in the car (so you couldn't see his really move) and you had to press it down in order to get the car started.  Now I don't understand how that worked cause when he let go it would still be running.  It is just used for the ignition switch?  Could you use that as a kill switch also?
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    Project: 1972 Challenger - 340 AT 8 3/4 3.23 gears
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    Offline OUTLAW

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    Re: kill switch
    « Reply #2 on: July 07, 2006 - 09:20:12 PM »
    I got it figured out and fixed..Plus it has to be accessable from the rear of the car (rules)
    I disconnected my alt battery wire and insulated it.Then ran new wire from alt/bat terminal to the battery side of the killswitch ...all works fine now
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    Offline ShelbyDogg

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    Re: kill switch
    « Reply #3 on: July 07, 2006 - 09:49:03 PM »
    Outlaw, the alternator was running the car once you disconnected the battery and also kept the relays energized. Never try to run a car with out a battery connected. The alternator doesn't see a load, the voltage goes sky high, then proceeds to blow everything in your car. (it burnt out every light bulb except brights).

    Ambitions2, The guy was completing his neutral start circuit like an alarm interupts it.  You can't crank till you push the switch, then isn't needed after startup.

    Rob
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    Rob

    3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

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    Offline 1971Challenger

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    Re: kill switch
    « Reply #4 on: July 16, 2006 - 11:56:21 AM »
    My kill switch is an easy 1 wire job:

    I have one pole of the switch go to ground, and wire the other pole of the switch to the ground of my coil. this keeps the coil at full ground and will not pulse to create spark.
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    "Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car. "Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car. "Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence. "Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.

    Offline heminut

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    Re: kill switch
    « Reply #5 on: July 16, 2006 - 02:37:26 PM »
    Quote from: 1971Challenger on July 16, 2006 - 11:56:21 AM
    My kill switch is an easy 1 wire job:

    I have one pole of the switch go to ground, and wire the other pole of the switch to the ground of my coil. this keeps the coil at full ground and will not pulse to create spark.

    That setup won't pass NHRA/IHRA tech. Their rules state something to the effect that the kill switch has to be on the positive side of the battery and kill everything when switched to off.
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    1970 5.7 Hemi Cuda

    Offline Rev-It-Up

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    Re: kill switch
    « Reply #6 on: July 17, 2006 - 02:48:54 PM »
    Nice to see you back with us Outlaw!  :grinyes:
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    Offline inot2old

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    Re: kill switch
    « Reply #7 on: July 18, 2006 - 04:00:15 PM »
    Quote from: Rev-It-Up on July 17, 2006 - 02:48:54 PM
    Nice to see you back with us Outlaw!  :grinyes:

     :iagree:  haven't seen you around for a long time.  Welcome back. :clapping:
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    '71 Cuda 

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