Author Topic: body paint removal  (Read 1667 times)

Offline 70RAGTOPR/T

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body paint removal
« on: August 16, 2006 - 05:38:09 AM »
I would like to start stripping the many layers of old paint off my car this fall.  I plan to do the job in my garage.  I know that I can use media to strip the paint but I don't have the equipment.  I was think of using a paint remover to do the job.  What do you think?  The color is flat black now but the paint is flacking and you can see the plum crazy underneath.  I look forward to your suggestions.   :clueless:    Please note that I'm on a very tight budget right now.   Thanks.




Offline dougs bs23

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Re: body paint removal
« Reply #1 on: August 16, 2006 - 06:12:57 AM »
YOu coulp pay a visit to your local NAPA store and see if they carry Martin Senour #7228 stripper in spray cans. It works well and will run you about $9.00 a can.  Spray it on let it set about 15 minutes and watch the layers bubble up. Then use a putty knife and peel it off,  :wow: but dont forget to lay some newspaper or something under your work area first because it will get a little messy and you dont want your cat walking thru it  :smilielol: . That product works well and is (hehehehe) environmentally friendly and can be cleaned up with warm soappy water. THey also carry # 7229 stripper which is a methylethel based and if your gagage is attached to your house chances are your wife wont appreciate the odor.  Either that or save some cash and have it blasted by someone else. Theres a guy near me that does soda blasting and will come set up in your driveway but hes not cheap.  Good luck  happy stripping (the paint that is) :smilielol: and lets see some pics
see Bill run  go Navy football///fly navy

Offline ambitions2

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Re: body paint removal
« Reply #2 on: August 16, 2006 - 08:19:34 AM »
I would go with Aircraft stripper.  I did my father's 70 Challenger and my 72 Challenger with it and it work perfect.  Wear gloves though cause they do burn.  After you are done stripping and you want to clean up the metal a little more, get some metal pads (for some reason what they are called is slipping my mind, you can buy them a home depot) and put a little stripper down and scrub the rest of the metal.  It leaves a coating on the metal in order to prevent it from rusting. 
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Offline Troy

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Re: body paint removal
« Reply #3 on: August 16, 2006 - 09:58:07 AM »
I use aircraft stripper most of the time. It is messy and caustic so wear a good respirator and thick rubber gloves. I use a razor blade scraper to help remove the softened paint (I actually stripped an entire quarter once using blades only!). Be sure to keep it as flat to the panel as possible and change blades often since they scratch when dull. I am also careful to only use the stripper on flat areas with no seams so it's easier to control and clean up. You don't want stripper leaking out of the seams during or after painting. Then I hit the seams or any stubborn areas with one of those 3M stripping wheels that go on a drill. You can actually do whole panels with these but it takes a while. I have done a whole quarter in an evening but it was a lot more work than watching the paint bubble and lift from aircraft stripper. By using the wheel the panel is already rough enough for most epoxy primers to stick to. The stripper will leave the metal smooth like it came from the factory (which some restorers/painters prefer to start with).

Troy
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Offline 360 'CUDA

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Re: body paint removal
« Reply #4 on: August 16, 2006 - 10:29:45 PM »
 :iagree:

As usual, Troy is correct.
If you don't have the aircraft paint remover available then a nice substitute is the Jasco premium paint & epoxy remover at Home Depot.

It's a little pricey at $25 a gallon but it works way better then the $15 stuff at WalMart.

If the panel is warm from the sun this stuff crackles and pops as soon as  you apply it and scrapping starts in about 2 minutes.

The usual safety requirements like everyone  said ('cause this stuff is nasty) and it's a good idea to have a clean bucket of water close by in case of accidents
If you get it on your arm stick it in the water right away to stop the burn and wear goggles of course

Offline 70RAGTOPR/T

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Re: body paint removal
« Reply #5 on: August 17, 2006 - 05:48:03 AM »
Thanks fellow members for the info.   Stripping the car is something that my wife and I can do together.  And feel that it's safe enough for both of us to do.  After going to a local car show, she has conceded to become involved into restoring the car.  I do have one stupid question, did you take the  doors and front fenders off?   :clueless:

 I will post some pics of the project real soon. First, I need to replace my digital camera.


Thank,
ragtop

Offline Troy

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Re: body paint removal
« Reply #6 on: August 17, 2006 - 06:22:21 AM »
Depends on how far you want to go. Completely stripping a car down to the bare shell is a HUGE undertaking. I learned the hard way that if your car is fairly clean, mostly rust free, and still has the original undercoating that doing a full blown resto can deprive you of several years of happy driving (and lots of money!). Remember that everything you strip off has to be re-applied. A rough estimate is that I need 2 gallons of epoxy, 2-3 gallons of filler primer, at least 2 gallons of paint, and a gallon of clear and all the assorted reducers and catalysts on the Charger. Had I left the original undercoating and only stripped down to the factory primer and only on the outside panels I'd have saved about 200-300 hours of labor, 3-4 layers of skin (lots of sanding!), and $700-900 worth of materials. This is the only way to truly know what you really have under there and it also allows you to put all new, better material down. However, I have to believe that most of these cars won't ever be abused like they may have been previously so they'll last a long time even without a full blown restoration. By that I mean they won't sit outside under a tree, get rained on, bake in the sun for years on end, drive though winter salted roads, or go extended periods of time between waxing. In that case a well done partial job should last many, many years. If you plan on driving the car a perfect job won't stay perfect long any way!

If you are stripping the car to bare metal - presumably so you know what you have to start with - then the fenders, doors, hood, and most any other bolt-on part should come off as well as the windshield and rear glass. Rust seems to collect behind trim and in any holes punched in the metal. All of these areas tend to collect dirt and debris which will fly around with the slightest amount of air pressure (like from a paint gun). The fenders, doors, and hood can be hauled to a chemical dipper or media blaster to get inside all the crevices but it's also easier to do the work yourself with them on a bench. The only factor here is time. It takes me as much as 8-12 hours to strip a fender depending on the amount of old paint but I can have all the pieces done by a professional blaster in a few hours. The local guy charges $60 per part for plastic media but I can catch a soda blast outfit about once a month doing a group deal for about $250-400 for a whole car AND there's a paint booth right there to shoot the epoxy. Not bad when you can go from peeling, flaking, rusty to one color in a matter of hours.

Disclaimers: You should neutralize soda with vinegar before doing any more work to the car. If you have any parts blasted with walnut shells then you *must* clean the parts well to remove any oil residue. If you have anything chemically dipped be sure the comapany will bake it so the chemicals will evaporate instead of seeping out 2 days after you get the car painted. If you can find it, get the parts e-coated after dipping and they'll last a very long time. Save yourself some headache and DO NOT sandblast any sheetmetal unless you know exactly what you're doing. Even the 3M disks can heat the metal up enough to warp if you hold them in one place too long. It only takes a matter of seconds for a sandblaster to get the metal that hot but it can take many, many hours to straighten it all out again.

Troy
« Last Edit: August 17, 2006 - 06:25:34 AM by Troy »
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Offline dougs bs23

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Re: body paint removal
« Reply #7 on: August 17, 2006 - 09:47:38 AM »
 :iagree: 
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Offline 70RAGTOPR/T

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Re: body paint removal
« Reply #8 on: August 17, 2006 - 11:03:27 AM »
Troy...........Thanks for you insight.  At first I was thinking of going with a full blown resto, but I not now.  I just want to get the car back to what it use to look like and have fun with it.  The will not be a daily driver, not with the $$$ of gas in DE.  It will be drive on nice days.

Here's what I'm dealing with;the car has sat in a garage for at least 26 yrs.  When I first got the car it sat outside under a car cover for 2 yrs.  I don't know about the cars first 8 yrs.  I'm the 3rd owner.  It was given to me by my cousin over 13 yrs ago.  The car was painted flat black sometime during the car's first 8 yrs.  I know it was done before my cousin had blown the engine while racing a vette in Philly.  He won the battle but lost the war.  He hit a pothole and tore the oil pan up.  He beat the vette.  In general the sheet metal is straight.  There are a few dings.  The door has a slight dent from when I pushed it into the garage.  The front fenders are bent around the lights.  Other then that, the rest are scratches.  I was thinking of taking the fenders off and take them to a bodyshop so they can fix the bent area around the lights.  As for the door, I was wondering if I should use bondo or take it to the bodyshop
also. 

If I use the stripper, will it take both layers of paint off at once?  Also, what does the factory undercoating look like?  Is it the grey primer?


Ragtop
Walt

Offline 360 'CUDA

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Re: body paint removal
« Reply #9 on: August 17, 2006 - 02:13:46 PM »
The stripper will take layers of paint off unevenly so you usually do two or three coats
first strip and then scrape and strip again.  Like Troy mentioned you can take really thick paint off with just a razor scrapper but the corners of the razor leave scratches so you change the blade alot.

I did a whole car that way once

Offline 70RAGTOPR/T

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Re: body paint removal
« Reply #10 on: August 18, 2006 - 05:41:05 AM »
Troy & Cuda.........Thanks for your insight and wisdom.  I know what my winter project will be.