Steering Coupler and Header Conflict (Spacing)

[DAYLEY/CHALLENGER]

I want to ask if anyone has had the problem I think I will have when I fire up the engine. I don't want to destroy the seal.  There is very little clearance between the rubber seal and the header pipe.  I even had to grind off the corners of the metal cap to get it to go on and be able to turn.   Is there an adjustment to the steering box or what to do?   I am attaching a couple of pics to view the problem.  Thanks in advance, David

[Alaskan_TA]

The old school method is do mark the header where you need the clearance, remove it, heat the area up red hot with and then dimple the header.

Using something like a trailer ball to push the red hot area in works good.

Sometimes you can just loosen you motor mounts and rock the engine away from the coupler as well, just tighen the mounts again when you get it where you want it.

Barry

[DAYLEY/CHALLENGER]

I am  having second thoughts about using the headers that are on the engine at the present time.  The header pipe is already dimpled around the steering box and there is only about 1/8" clearance   there.   I am concerned about heat transfer.   I guess I am asking if it is worth the effort to go back to the original exhause manifolds (which I don't have), or risk damaging the steering box and coupler.   Any suggestions???

[Jacksboys]

Is it possible to get a different set of headers?  That way the exhaust can look just as good as the rest of the car.

[426 pentastar]

As Barry said -old school-just make them work .Stock is fine if you can find some you wont lose very much performance wise.You could use TTI, which they fit really well.

[DAYLEY/CHALLENGER]

I thought about the old school method.  Started to remove the header.  Spacing is so close that I can't take them off without what appears to having to pull the engine.   

Still in limbo.........