Well, you want it to do several things well, but primarilly you want a road race car. So we'll stay in that relm, and let teh rest fall where it may. First, the longevity issue...Road racing isnt liek drag racing. The engine is at mid throttle and and sustained rpms much more than in drag racing. So a stock oiling system really isnt "the way" to go. Neither is a 7qt deep sump. You want to stay on what drag racers would call "the milder side" for the sake of longevity and stability. The best way to get smooth power and hard torque accross a broad rpm range is a solid roller. my personal feeling is if you are going to spend on a roller style cam, then go solid. Hydraulic rollers are what factory engines use nowadays. They are quieter, smoother, and make the same power as a straight hydraulic flat tappet. They just dont use up as much of that same power in running themselves. But because they are still oil pressure maintained, they cannot have the same rates of lift that a solid roller, or even solid flat tappet can have. Hydraulic lifters just cant run as well. Period. So solid roller is the way to go. As far as oil delivery and systems... Hughes has the solid body rollers. So does Comp and Crane as I recall. They will not drop presure by uncovering the oil galley at peak lift. But that's all they do. They also weigh a ton (as far as roller lifters go). There is more to oil control. They were made to fix the problem most guys have. Now, tubing the block removes the possibility of oil pressure bleeding off thru the lifters during lift and because of loose fitting lifter bores. It also lends itself to the main passages being enlarged because you have to re-drill them anyway. But, it doesnt correct any lifter angle probelms that Mopars are famous for. The LA engines already have terrible pushrod angles. Mopar factory machining is some of the worst. It is to address all the issues successfully that lifter bore bushings are used. Yes, they are an addittional $400 where I go. But, they correct the machining, correct the loose tolerences, still deliver a littel oil to the tappets for endurance use, and allow lighter tappets to be run. It's the only way I'd do an engine that will see the high side of 5500 for extended periods on a regular basis. The whole job for bushings runs about $450 after the cost of the parts themselves. Tubing kits cost $50. The labor to install them is another $1-200, depeding on the shop. So really, the difference is $200. Run a used intake of carb to make that up, and just do it "right". Cam choice depends on heads, blower setup, and fuel type at minimum. I'm not a blower guy, so I would recommend you use a pro to help you thru that. Something to remember tho, solid roller cams if you go too big, will make great power, and break things over time. They will wear out lifters (should be rebuilt every 2 years or 10K miles)and waste valve springs. So stay conservative, and I would run an oil cooler too. Also, I would not run aluminum rockers. Get some steel ones for longevity.
