PLEASE help... - Electric Choke...

[ViperMan]

Hey guys,  Aw man first of all lemme say I wouldn't have been able to pull this off without the help of this group.  Thank you so much for all the information you've provided me with already.

Okay, Friday I installed new wires, plugs, ignition module, coil, cap and rotor.

Saturday I installed the new Edelbrock 1406 Carb with Elec. Choke.

Today I took 'er in and my friend helped time it up - 10 degrees advanced because she sounds cam'ed.  That motor spins up SO fast now - just tap the throttle and BRAAAAA!!!!  Holy crap...

But we are TOTALLY stumped on where in the hell to run the positive, 12V wire for the electric choke.  We found a TON of wiring connections that aren't safely or properly run (damn the guy who "rewired" this thing.)  But we can't figure out where to run a wire for 12 volts that will only supply 12 volts PREFERABLY when the vehicle is RUNNING ONLY.  Now if nothing else I'll take a 12V in the RUN mode that'll have power even when the engine isn't actually running - I'd just prefer not to wire it to an ACCessory circuit.

Now, I did find wiring diagrams for it just a minute ago (thanks again Cuda-Challenger.com) and I actually see where there is a lead to an "electronic choke control" from the Fielding terminal on the alternator.  Now, we checked the voltage for that very lead and we were only getting 10 Volts.  Now, it's possible my alternator isn't quite up to snuff - that or the regulator, but I need to find out for sure were the hell to run this thing so I don't go screwin' up all the new parts I just put in this thing - esPECIALLY that carburetor.  So if anyone can give me some quick tips before I take the car back in tomorrow I'd appreciate it.

Thanks so much again.

Jeff   



 

[422STROKER]

I like to connect it at the ballast resistor.  One lead has 12V running/ignition.

Tom

Plus, there you can piggyback(spade connector) it without hacking the harness.

[ViperMan]

I was told not to run it there because it increase the amps through the ballast resistor and can fry it even quicker than they're known to fry on their own...

[MEK-Dangerfield]

You don't want to know what I did. 

 That wire has small current to it. I ran it into my passenger's compartment, and tied it to the wire for my radio.  The wire that is turned on by the ignition switch. It is either orange or red, but I think orange. 


  Mike

[Chryco Psycho]

the Blue wire to the ballast & voltage reg is 12v switched , you may have a charging problem if you only have 10 v though

[ViperMan]

Yeah I'm pretty sure I have a charging issue, but I can fix that.  Only thing is, I don't have a blue wire...  I have a green and a brown...

Jeff

[422STROKER]

Check it with a voltmeter and if you connect it(Choke) on the line(supply) side of the Resistor it will not increase current through it, it will increase current through the fuse though.  I have never had a problem here.  You need to check the Battery Voltage while the car is running and Accessories are on.  Should be 13.5-14.5V. 

Tom

[Mopar73340]

If your car is a 73??? as your name states, there should already be a power source for the original choke on the passenger side valve cover running with the other wiring. It will have a female plug on the end and terminate near the choke well. Hope this helps.

[Whitehatspecial]

I ran mine to the positive side of the wiper motor. Use a test light to make sure you have power in the "key on" position.

[ViperMan]

If your car is a 73??? as your name states, there should already be a power source for the original choke on the passenger side valve cover running with the other wiring. It will have a female plug on the end and terminate near the choke well. Hope this helps.

You're absolutely right, except that the wire you mentioned was dead - no voltage at all.  I found the other end of it near the alternator.  According to the wiring diagram, the choke heating circuit ran off one of the alternator fielding terminals, which is where I ended up hooking mine - I used a new spade terminal and replaced the original connection.  When I got the car it had a different intake manifold with a choke heating coil built into it.  I'm not going to bother sinking money into a new intake manifold as I intend to replace the motor within the next two years.

Thanks for the help - it seems to be working fine now - I just need to go in and check wires as I think I have a voltage drop issue.

Jeff

[moper]

The instructions usually tell you to use the ballast circuit. I dont like doing that because any heating coil take sa lot fo jiuce, and any loss at the 12v hot side of the resistor means less power to the hot side of the coil, leading to weak spark in some cars. I use the Acc slot in the fuse box, or one of the 12V switched wires coming off the ignition switch so long as it's not the ignition circuit's power feed. I like that wiper hot lead idea..never thought of that...

[Mopar73340]

You're absolutely right, except that the wire you mentioned was dead - no voltage at all.  I found the other end of it near the alternator.  According to the wiring diagram, the choke heating circuit ran off one of the alternator fielding terminals, which is where I ended up hooking mine - I used a new spade terminal and replaced the original connection.  When I got the car it had a different intake manifold with a choke heating coil built into it.  I'm not going to bother sinking money into a new intake manifold as I intend to replace the motor within the next two years.

Thanks for the help - it seems to be working fine now - I just need to go in and check wires as I think I have a voltage drop issue.

Jeff

Glad u got it working ok....