Rust treatment

[Topcat]

I imagine that you could use the acetone also. What I would do if I were you, is to do a spray test on something you don't care about using the acetone. Then see how it tacks right off. If it looks like it is too runny, adjust as needed.

I don't have an answer to you on what is better Acetone vs. Tolulene. Maybe somebody here can tell you what they feel is best to use as a reducer.

As you know these type of solvents evaporate very fast so the actual ingredients are left to dry afterwards. I would say that my mixture I used using the Tolulene was about 70/30. 30 being the tolulene. If you want to be safe on the reducing, go a little less than that. If it gets too thin it will have a tendency to run. No big deal if it does because you can sand this stuff and paint over it afterwards.

 Make sure that you stir it all up real well. The paint likes to settle so get to work right away after stirring it all up.

Have fun and reply your own findings.

[Chlngrcrzy]

I have a small quantity of Eastwoods Encapsulator, And a small starter kit of Por 15 coming, to try. I am also going to try some rust bullit and the PPG primer encapsulator. I will let ya all know what worked best for me. Thanks for all the input.

[LAA66]

 Still grinding, sanding and prepping Topcat (Not fun). Tomorrow should be a good day to shot the bullet. (that's fun!)  Going to do about a 20/80 thin ratio to start with. Let you know!

 Hey Challengercrazy, sorry to step on your post here. It would be great to know how all the products compare, please let us know.

[Chlngrcrzy]

No problemo LAA66, I find it very helpful when i get lots of input. Gives me ideas. This is my first car, so i need individuals like you to contribute all that great knowledge and experience you have from your projects.

[Topcat]

One other litttle tip to save you grief.

Once you open the can of Rust Bullet, find a different container of similar size to pour it in like a mayonaise jar. The reason why is that eventually you end up getting some of the paint on the edge inner groove on top of the can. Once that happens and you put the lid back on it hardens the lid onto the jar like cement making it a bear to get open the next time. Or, it won't seal all the way and then the paint gets hardened. Now you'll have some to use for another project and the paint will still be fresh.

Yesterday, I had to use channel locks to pry the top off.   

[LAA66]

 Seems every project has some problem that stands out. That's probably the most important thing to remember...... and pass on. .

[71bigblock]

On the POR 15 cans, it says to use saran wrap on the whole cover.  I did it, and it works perfect.  Seals great and it comes off easy. 

[Topcat]

That sounds like a good idea.

[LAA66]

 Sprayed the trunk floor today and had some bubbling in the heavier coated areas. Everywhere else will just take a light sanding. Don't know if it was the thinning with acetone or I applied to much. The stuff is so thick though, I don't know if my old sacrificial gun can shoot it unless thinned.

 How many days do you wait until sanding Topcat? Do you need to wet sand?

 Thanks 

[Topcat]

Question was good timing.

I just got back from the paint store and he said wait 1 week before applying any other paint over it. he said to let it Gas out. Sand off what you don't like and just re do it again.

The bubbles you speak about might be because you layed the paint on too thick. At first I put it on with a brush in the beginning and it bubbled up too. Took it all off.  Ya gotta really watch how much of this stuff you lay on or it will get wierd on you.

I'm using a HF gun (cheap POS) to spray. Make sure that you get a wide Fan pattern before you spray. This way it'll disperse more evenly. Keep your distance untill you see how thick it goes on. Thin coats 2 times is the trick. Now this next time, get the Tolulene. 

This is thick paint so it can be tricky to spray.

[Chlngrcrzy]

Keep the good stuff coming.

[mrbill426]

On this topic, what is the intended usage of POR 15s "Metal Ready", is it a rust preventer?  Is it for applying over bare or rusty metal?  Can it be directly painted over?

[Topcat]

There are many types of rust encapsulating types of paint out in the market. Both POR and Rust Bullet are similar products. Each one will say they are the best. I personally haven't tried POR. Some swear by it. I've been happy with Rust Bullet.

I do know that with Rust Bullet, that you can paint over it after it's dried and scuffed on the surface.
It's a safe bet that would be true with POR also.

I recommend that you go to their websites and draw your conclusion what you feel is best for you.
On Rust bullet's website, it gives the complete instructions.

[Scatterbrain]

On my 71 Corvette frame I used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator.  It took about 3 rattle cans of the stuff to get it done.  The frame was in really good condition with only surface rust.  I just went after it with a wire wheel and sprayed the RE over the frame.  This looked nice by itself, but I added a coat of Eastwood's frame paint in a satin finish.  Came out better than I expected.  I had spoken with several folks about POR 15 and Eastwood's RE and most said that POR 15 is just way to messy and the fumes are just awful.  Though at 18 bucks a rattle can it is not a cheaper option, but for me it seemed to be a better solution.

[Rob_In_MN]

On this topic, what is the intended usage of POR 15s "Metal Ready", is it a rust preventer?  Is it for applying over bare or rusty metal?  Can it be directly painted over?

the metal ready is for bare metal -- remember that POR 15 doesn't like to adhere to non-rusty metal, it's so smooth.  so, metal ready claims to "etch" the metal so the POR15 will adhere to it better.