Proven 3 Speaker Dash Audio Setups.

[EvilTwinATX]

I am trying to spec out the speakers BEFORE I put my dash in. Unfortunately I know NOTHING about car audio..

I would like something that sounds nice but I can't afford to break the bank... I was thinking this:

(2)3.5'' Rockford Fosgate Speakers in the front outer dash
Leave the Center speaker location blank.
(2) 6x9's in the rear package tray
(2) 10'' or (1) 12'' Sub in the trunk

I want it to be classy and sound good.. not a competition system or anything.

PICS PLEASE!!

[bb71challenger]

You might have a hard time getting great sound out of your speaker locations even if you put a speaker in the mid speaker location in the dash. having the 6x9's along with the small dash speakers will overpower the sound and make it all come from behind you, not a good thing. I would try to find a couple of mids or a single mid that will fit in that center speaker location to get as much sound as possible out of your front soundstage. I like the subs idea too as bass adds so much depth to music. If you want space get a single top tier sub as opposed to 2 normal versions. A single 12W7 from JL Audio with 700-1000 watts will blow your mind. I have a 500/1 JL amp powering a slot ported 12W7 in my neon and it will give you a back rub It is an odd sensation when you can feel the hair on your legs move when the bass hits 

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Putting aftermarket speakers in the corners of the dash will require some hacking away at the dash frame. The original speakers had small magnets, and were low profile.


  Mike

[ragtopdodge]

Hack the dash frame and put in some kick arse 4" mid.  Mount some tweets on the a-pillars as close to the dash speakers as possible and point them towards the back at an angle.

Put some 6" rounds with some 1" tweets back shelf.  Don't have to be seperates...two-ways are fine.

ANd of course, the biggest sub you can fit in your trunk that does not compromise trunk space to your liking.


For amplification, I recommend a 5 or six channel amp.  Less wiring (cleaner) with one big amp.  1/2 channel, up front w/most of the sound there.  3/4 channel on the back shelf speakers, but with less volumne.

Bridge the 5th and 6th channel to the sub.

[bb71challenger]

My second system was a multi-channel amp setup. I did not like it as the sub amp being underpowered for my liking. I prefer mulitple amp setups as you can put the power where you need it and it ultimately sounds better imo. The sub amp usually takes up the same size chassis as a multi amp with 5 channels. Also steer clear of a class a/b amp for sub duty, a class d is much better suited for powering a sub. I do think it will probably require modifying the outside speakers on a 3 speaker dash to get a decent speaker in there. I prefer component sets and you can find nice 2 way or 3 way components that come with a crossover to send the right signals to the right speakers essentially doing away with having to put "bass blockers" with the speakers. A good set of 4" speakers like stated above along with a 5 1/4 2 way component system would work great. I am not a huge fan of putting tweets on the A pillar but in this case it would probably be necessary. You could easily fab a plate to hold the 2 5/14 speakers and put them in the center speaker spot, I think they would fit. I really dont know what that would do to the soundstage but you would surely get plenty of sound out of it. Rear fill which is to say rear deck speakers, I am a fan but only for supporting the soundstage, not enough to overpower the front soundstage at all. Most audiophiles do not like or recommend any rear stage at all.

[EvilTwinATX]

What about putting small speaker in the center and tweets in the outer speaker locations?

[bb71challenger]

What about putting small speaker in the center and tweets in the outer speaker locations?

It would probably work without having to modify your dash frame. I am thinking you could probably put a couple of 5 1/4 mids in the middle section and then use plumber strap to mount the tweet in the outside speaker locations. plumber strap is just that erector set looking steel strap that you can bend and shape how you want to position the tweet how you want in the bigger hole. The trick though is to get enough sound out of your front stage that it is not overwhelmed by your rear soundstage. It is just mind blowing how moving speakers around in the car will affect the sound. get it right and it is awesome, get it wrong and it will sound ok and even good. Having a good deck like an alpine or older eclipse (they sold out and are junk now) with time correction will help a bunch in cleaning up the soundstage. time correction is a process where each speaker location is measured to the drivers ear or head position, when it is all computed what it does is delay the furthest speakers so many miliseconds so all the sound from all the speakers hit your ears at the same time. Again, done right it is an awesome listening experience.

[Robb]

I used to do IASCA and USAC.


2 good tweeters in the dash, 5.25's mids in the kickpanels (search for a Goodys post here on this) and 2 free-air 8" woofers in the rear 6x9 locations (you can make an adapter from MDF so that it uses the factory screw locations).

2 amplifiers,  with 1 running the 8's with a mono signal

youll keep all your trunk room with no box, get a little more bottom end from the rear.    you dont need tweeters in the back.   you should be "facing the music".   the 8's are much less directional and use the trunk space itself as the "box".

I think youll be surprised.   

+1 on the time alignment.   if you put anything in the center channel area it needs to be very very subtle.   You shouldnt be able to hear it.  A well set up system shouldnt need a center channel.  the time alignment should correct this.

[bb71challenger]

sounds like a really good setup Robb. The free air subs would do the trick for sure. JL makes a nice free air sub in 8" size. I am not too familiar and dont even try to keep up with all the new sub manufacturers nowadays but not too many companies make free air subs anymore that I have seen. I did not even recommend the kick panesl because it does require cutting a hole and it is very tight with the emergency brake right there. I dont have to worry about that stuff because I am going to make 3 way component pods for my door panels that connect to the steel frame behind the panels. I will have no problem getting a great soundstage. I did compete in USAC at one time but it was just for fun, not anything serious at all.

[Autophile]

I agree with Robb's suggestions.

Note that I had a multi-speaker setup in my Dad's Roadrunner for a time, and I made use of the center channel location by mounting up one Rockford Fosgate 3.5" mid on each side of a Rockford soft dome tweeter on a thin piece of MDF. The passive crossovers were mounted on the bottom of the plate. I used inline resistors on the speaker wires feeding the center speakers to balance the output as needed.