Author Topic: Changing the Sure Grip  (Read 739 times)

Offline Rare_T_A

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Changing the Sure Grip
« on: October 05, 2007 - 03:29:33 PM »
The last time I did a burnout with the T/A it looked as if one wheel was dropping out. The dif is an 8 3/4 with 4:88 gears and a cone SG. I have two 3:23's with both clutch type SG's. I was wondering if someone could tell me what settings I would have to watch if I took out the Cone and replaced it with one of the clutch type SG. I'm just removing the SG and reinstall my 4:88 ring gear to the clutch SG and reinstall in my 4:88 housing.

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Thanks guys!!
'09 Challenger R/T  5.7 HEMI Auto
'70Challenger T/A 340 727

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Offline Moparal

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Re: Changing the Sure Grip
« Reply #1 on: October 05, 2007 - 03:47:10 PM »
Just remember that the ring gear bolts are left hand threads.  If you need to know the tq specs of them I can look them up, but I think it's 50ft lbs. Marc your caps with a punch to be sure you don't mix the caps. Put a identifying notch on the spanner wheel with a dot in reference to where it is as installed or inline with the cap for a close adjustment. You will be off just a tad I would assume useing a different assembly. The main caps I believe are around 70ft lbs.  I have a book for the specs if you need me to look them up. All that really has to be done is set the lash. The pinion already is set for the depth of the root clearance. It helps if you have some gear pattern lube to get the lash just right, but when all is said and done, you will feel the yoke wiggle around .015 to around .040 or so. The races stay with the bearings your useing on the powerlock.  Keeping the original races with the bearings from the sure grip cone. It is actually a fairly easy task, but be sure to use a tq wrench so as to tighten all the bolts to the same spec so not to warp the gear and to get a good even clamp on the main bolts to the housing.

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Changing the Sure Grip
« Reply #2 on: October 06, 2007 - 04:00:19 AM »
I use a dial guage & measure the backlash BEFORE disassembling the gears , then when resetting I make sure the back lash is the same as before , generally around .008-.016 , setting the brg load correctly is more difficult , it is more of a feel thing , do not make them too tight to rotate

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Offline R/T

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Re: Changing the Sure Grip
« Reply #3 on: October 21, 2007 - 08:00:31 PM »
 Here is a link that may help.
http://www.auburngear.com/aftermarket/common/literature/Diff_Install_Instructions.pdf
But with Chryco and Moparal giving advice , you really don't need any more help than that.  :2thumbs:
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