Do I even NEED all this? Am I going over the top?

[ViperMan]

Okay then - so if I do closed head design, with a flat-top piston (since obviously domed is going to go WAY too high with compression - do I get the adequate quench?

I read the post about 440Source having other piston options not listed.  I guess when I really get down to purchase time, I can call them to get the full range of options.

Because if quench will be better, and compression will be "close enough," then I'll probably go with the 440Source aluminum heads, and the best damned gaskets money can buy, and the studs and such.  Paying for those extras will outweight the cost of constantly resealing heads.

I think I've almost got it all figured out.

Jeff

[Chryco Psycho]

I would use an Arp bolt set over studs , studs make it impossible to remove the heads in the car

[ViperMan]

Okay I don't know the technical term for this, but what about having a larger diameter hole cut at say, each corner of the head and the block deck, and having a pin installed one one side that would then mate with the other surface.  The pin would be pressed into one side and would have a thin clearance with the other side, then the head bolts would run inside this pin.  Can anyone picture what I'm talking about?  Is this even possible, or does it limit the movement of the metals TOO much?

Jeff

[quagmire]

If you use quality bolts or studs like ARP makes and MLS gaskets you'll be fine.  Virtually all engines nowadays are all aluminum or bimetal, and they use MLS gaskets and torque to yield bolts to cope with the expansion.  With the exception of a few engines which fail commonly because of crappy designs, head gasket sealing is not a problem unless you overheat the engine.  You will only have sealing issues if you use regular head gaskets.  The reason regular gaskets fail on bimetal engines is because of the disimilar expansion between the head and the block.  Aluminum expands much more than iron, so the gasket ends up getting chewed up over time.  MLS gaskets use several layers of steel to allow the gasket to slide around and move without destroying itself.  That is also why the finish on the heads and block needs to be very smooth.  And ARP studs come with allen keys machined into them so you can remove them on the car just as easy as if it had bolts. 

[Chryco Psycho]

the heads use dowel pins to locate the gasket & heads properly

[73EStroker]

G-Man - didn't know you were an Aussie. Yes- they have the stunting thing here. One fellow who has a 71 clone 472 Hemi Chall Rag Top "accidentally" gave the gas a little hit here. Happened in front of some cops. Got the ticket for 8 points (good for at least $1000 extra on penalties, plus insurance extras) and $800. He didn't give a damn about the fine so he went to a company called Points that is made up of ex-cops and they negotiated the points down to zero for him. CP - I think you know who that was.

Mr 73 Barracuda - my point earlier was that you keep talking budget so hence my suggestions. Why go 512 if you are going to use it only occassionally. Also remember that a 512 engine will pull the rest of a stock car to bits unless you modify it. More $$$. I work in the oil industry engineering business. Ever heard of "scope creep"? That is when we estimate a project to be $2Billion and it ends up at $3B+. Well the same happened to my $8-9000 451 stroker engine. It cost $13,500 odd. If you are starting from a short bare block like me then you can look forward to these types of prices. If you are on a budget then saving like hell for this just makes this project seem like a lifetime. If you can afford this type of money why not go and get one of the (Indy I believe - ad in Mopar Muscle) crate 451/440 6 pack complete motor they are advertising for $11,500 ready to go with carbs, distributor and all. Already dynoed at 560HP. That is what I wish I had done. Or just modified the original 340.

Sorry to sound like an old fogey here but you sometimes get past the point of no return in a project then you regret ever starting. I still say that a good car is a complete balanced package (IE Engine, reliable cooling, Tranny, rearend, suspension, tires etc you get the picture  )

Now if you have an unlimited budget then I have just worn out the end of my fingers typing here. There may be no oil left if you wait too long to finish. Saudi has reserves of 260B barrels and exports 13.5M BPD. That means they run out in 81 years at todays consumption. 

[ViperMan]

the heads use dowel pins to locate the gasket & heads properly

Dowel Pins - That's what they're called...

73EStroker

I hear what you're saying.  I still attest that my point of this project isn't to buy an engine and drop it in.  I'm going to do this myself, and I really don't care how long it takes.  I mean I do, realistically, but this isn't just about having a fast car.  If I wanted a fast car that soon, I'd go and buy a 'Vette.  Hell you can get used Vipers in the 30K range.

I'm building my engine - building my car.  Doing it myself, the hard way, because it's probably the only chance I'll ever get.

I do appreciate the feedback and there's always a flip side to every coin.  But if I really decide I'm going to the wrong direction I can always sell the parts I have stored up and go another route.

Thanks

Jeff