'Green Bearing 'install in a 8 3/4 posi axle

[cuda-cable]

Got the info from Mancini Racing for their 'green axle' sealed axle bearing kit . Has anyone done this install ...besides being 'less cost' than the adjustable stock bearings , are there other advantages. It appears these are a press on to swap for the std brg. Is it that easy or am I missing something. I'm in the process of refurbishing the rear suspension totally but donot need to do ..or so it appears so far anything to the posi unit/ ring/pinion but the pot is weaping some diff fluid...doesit just lift out as an ass'y   once I pull the axles? and whats the best to seal...some say don't use a gasket but rather  just use a 'sealing ' product on it..What works best since i  only want to do this once.

Also I need the pot ass'y and trim part and some springs (I think)  that holds the head lite in my 73 cuda....does something from another vehicle(dodge van?) work? ........thx  for any input.....

[Chryco Psycho]

Welcome to the site
 The Green brgs are ok , they will eliminate the adjuster  completely though & may require the center spacer to be removed , , they are a roller ball type brg & will locate the axle side to side so the adjuster is not needed , but they do not take side loading / cornering load as well as the factory tapered roller brg & therefore will not last as long
 The center section / carrier will slide out after pulling the axles out 6" or so , you can get a gasket form the aftermarket but the dealer will just sell you a tube of silicone , personally I clean the suface with brake clean & use a good qual;ity silicone like permatex ultra Black & no gasket
 The Cuda uses a generic 7" round headlight pot so a Dodge Van or Volare should fit fine  

[cuda-cable]

thx for the info, so are the 'green bearings' a good idea or should I  stick to a 'stock  style' bearing with the adjuster. My main reason to be in to this to start with is that the seals are leaking diff fluid onto the brakes so I need to replace the axle seal  more so than the bearings .....just thought that while I'm here best to do all since I've no idea if/when they have been done/if ever. It appears that the bearing regardless is a press fit and that's all that holds the axle in via the retainer plate.....does the brg need to be pressed off at an auto m/c shop?

[Chryco Psycho]

I would stick with the stock brg unless you absolutly are forced to go to the green brgs, generally the inner seal inside the housing is the problem when gear oil starts to leak out , the outer seal behind the brg is more of a dust seal , I would repack the brgs with grease , leave the brg & outer seal alone & replace only the inner seal

[Autophile]

I just purchased a new set of rear Wilwood disk brakes (part# 140-7144), and they require the green bearings, a.k.a snap ring bearings. I haven't made the physical swap yet, so I have no advice/experience to share with you about the changeover and performance of the bearings. But anyway, just an fyi about one application that uses these bearings, in case you were looking for reasons to change them.

[cuda-cable]

thx  for the input on my bearing situation, I'll proceed to pull it apart ,grease , replace the inner seal   and 'drive on'.  these rear bearings are tapered so I'd imagine there's some kind of preload spec that should be in my shop manual. Now I need to also track down a Volare to get the head lite pots..........thx  for the help......dk

[Chryco Psycho]

the perlaod spec is actually a clearance spec, you need approx .008-.018 end play , use a large hammer to seat the axle to the non adjuster side & check the play on the adjuster side