I can't "see the light" rallye gauges

[mikerallye]

I have a 73 rallye and have never seen any red ignition light when the key is turned on. Is there a red light that comes on when the key is turned on. Also, what makes the brake light stay on. I have new pads and shoes, the proportion valve is plugged in and the ebrake is released, but the brake light still stays on. Any help would be appreciated.

[Chryco Psycho]

the brake lite is ground switched so it has to either be grounded inthe propotioning valve or the emergency brake pedal , or the circuit is grounded somewhere with a damaged wire , the switch in the proportioning valve may not be centered , if the light goes out when you unplug it there that would be the problem , you may have to crack & front or rear bleeder & push hard on the pedal to get the switch to re-center , sometimes it will recenter just pushing hard on the pedal

[miketyler]

Yup - mine was on for the longest time after I put it back together. I read in the manual that standing on the brake abruptly would reset the shuttling valve and sure nuff it did.   

[Bullitt-]

No red light with the ralley gauges as oil pressure is monitored by the gauge..on standard dash I suppose the idiot light comes on as it did on my Duster.

[BruteForce]

My Challenger doesn't have an oil pressure "idiot" light, just the gauge. But since the oil pressure switch I'm adding to the electric fuel pump wire can also operate an idiot light, I'll be adding one. I just don't look down at the gauge often enough.

[miketyler]

Its a good question; if you wanted to add a light or a tiny LED for just "key on" indication only, where would you connect it?

[BruteForce]

Since the current draw of an LED or bulb would be minimal, you have many options. I'd hook it to the 12V supply going to the dash instruments if a bulb, and the 5V supply coming off the voltage regulator for the dash instruments if an LED.

If using an LED, remember to put a resistor in line with it, or the LED will burn brightly, but briefly. The resistor value depends on the LED specs and the supply voltage. Some panel mount LEDs have a resistor built in.

I considered adding an ignition light, but thought that the instruments coming alive when the ignition was turned on was good enough.

Finding panel lights ready-to-go seems to be rather difficult. The auto electric supply web sites don't have them. I finally found ones on the shelf at Shuck's for about $4 each.

[mikerallye]

Man! you guys are real experts, no only do you give great advice and tech support, but you all do it in a courteous and professional way. I guess I have been getting used to  the poor off shore tech support that is being shoved at us these days. Great job! Looking forward to getting spoiled!

[4Cruizn]

Man! you guys are real experts, no only do you give great advice and tech support, but you all do it in a courteous and professional way. I guess I have been getting used to  the poor off shore tech support that is being shoved at us these days. Great job! Looking forward to getting spoiled!

I think this is the norm around here.   

Good topic by the way!         

[miketyler]

Since the current draw of an LED or bulb would be minimal, you have many options. I'd hook it to the 12V supply going to the dash instruments if a bulb, and the 5V supply coming off the voltage regulator for the dash instruments if an LED.

I might have misunderstood, those might be good power sources but where would you get the key-on signal only? Assuming you wouldn't want the light on once the engine was started, most would probably want a ready indicator that the key is on and iginiton is armed??   

[BruteForce]

I might have misunderstood, those might be good power sources but where would you get the key-on signal only?

The dash isn't powered up unless the ignition is on, so powering the light with the dash power should work fine.

Assuming you wouldn't want the light on once the engine was started, most would probably want a ready indicator that the key is on and iginiton is armed??

This means you'll want to connect it to the 'start' circuit. That's the one that trips the starter solenoid. You can pick it off of the balast resistor.

[Bullitt-]

Found the solution to adding a idiot light to your Ralley Dash...takes a dual feed oil pressure sending unit.  Here's the how to, see #s 3,4,5 .......................may be a good use for that useless seat belt warning light 
http://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical2.html


Da Bullitt

[miketyler]

yup - thats what I was thinking about and is used on lots of other model cars. Also provides visible warning when pressure drops. Good stuff, thanks. 

Also good is the updated 5v source for OEM gauges. I read on Moparts where someone rebutted that mod; cant remember why it was. 

[Bullitt-]

Also good is the updated 5v source for OEM gauges. I read on Moparts where someone rebutted that mod; cant remember why it was. 

The only issue I can see with the electronic conversion might be heat.. I was thinking some longer wires to relocate the limiter to a safe place...maybe a thermal fuse as a fail-safe?
   I checked Radio Shack & the 5V regulator runs $1.59...if all the other items are close to what they state you might spend $10 on components.....I see the ready to go units are about $45.