Removing Upper Ball Joints

[asm74]

Okay, what's the trick?  The thing won't budge one bit. 

[71340RT]

I use a air impact on the ball joint and even had to heat around the ball joint to get them out. Last time I sprayed it down with rust eater last time I changed any and let it set for a week and sprayed it everyday.

[Changin Gears]

Remove it with the control arm still in the car so its firmly held.

[422STROKER]

You are using a socket and not a press right?  I'm not trying to be funny, just making sure.

Tom

[asm74]

Socket, yes.   

[422STROKER]

Heat and a long pipe on your Breaker bar should do it.

Tom

[GoodysGotaCuda]

took some nasty torque with a longgg 3/4" ratchet and a foot on the frame  to bust my factory ones loose

[Aussie Challenger]

Heat and a long pipe on your Breaker bar should do it.

Tom

  Make sure that it is a long bar, a piece if heavy long tube pipe over the bar and a friend to make sure the socket doesn't fall off, be carefull.   

[asm74]

ugh....Why does this sound more life threatening than dropping the transmission?

[Moparal]

ugh....Why does this sound more life threatening than dropping the transmission?

I feel the need to add just a bit more info for you munch on.

You hadn't mentioned that you have seperated the ball joint from the spindal yet. So...

just loosen the nut on the upper joint after taking the cotter key out. Almost all the way, but leave a few threads still on it. Now with a bfh or a joint seperaer, smack the thing loose. I.E.. either hitting the side of the hub assembly or the ball joint fork. Once the pressure is unloaded off the ball joint (it is a taper shaft) , use a floor jack on the lower control arm and lift the assembly up a bit so you can take the weight off the upper assembly. Now notice the upper joint has a boot attached. Useing a screw driver (flat tip) pry the boot down. It is also attached on to the thread area and will make it hard to unscrew if you leave it on. Then as CP said, leave the upper control arm on and also leave the nut on a bit when unscrewing. This will keep it centered better and make it just a wee bit easier. And if you had a 1/2 impact gun it would be easier, but if you don't, follow up on what the other guys said about leverage.

This is a self taping joint, so you don't want to cross thread the new joint in. And throw some grease on the threads when re installing.

[asm74]

Thanks Al, yeah, this whole thing is part of a total brake rebuild.  So the spindles are off, no tension on the torsion bars etc.