brass freeze plugs

[common 27]

  I bought a set of brass plugs ,the brand is Dorman, and they are about 2 times as thick as the ones I took out. anyone know why and if it makes any difference?

[Changin Gears]

I've used them, don't really like 'em.  You can't install them like the originals, Your supposed to drive them in past them chamfer in the block.  The idea being the sharp edge on the plug digs into the block and prevents it from pushing out.

[LAA66]

 Brass plugs have worked fine for me. Used many over the years and no problems, but I can't remember how thick vs. the originals.

 We used to install them last after painting the engine so the shiny brass material showed. 

[Chryco Psycho]

they do not rust

[common 27]

I was wondering about the thickness,the ones I took out are around3/8 thick and the new are 5/8. quite a difference

[Changin Gears]

I use the brass ones that are the original thickness.

[airfueleddie]

I used em too. I used Powerhouse plastic driver thats counter sized to 1 5/8 sized and it drove them perfectly using a smear of MoPar Adhesive/Sealer.

[BoughtItNew]

Brass is softer than steel.  More thickness equalizes strength.

[common 27]

 I'm not sure if anyone understands what I'm saying. The  brass plugs will stick into the block further than the steel ones by 3/8 " I'm wondering why and if it makes a difference?

[Changin Gears]

I know what you are saying, if you try to install them so that the sharp edge of the lip will dig into the block you would have to drive them in 'til they hit a cylinder in the block.  That why I don't like them.

[moper]

There are deep and shallow. In the front holes, I think deep oines hit the cylinder casting. I like the deep opnes. Brass does not grab as well as stell does. They dont corrode, but you dont want them popping out either. The shallow ones work ok too, but the deeper the plug, the more surface area to grab the bore. Also make sure there is no edge or slag from the old plug in the bore walls. It doesnt always come off in the cleaning processes.

[BoughtItNew]

I'm not sure if anyone understands what I'm saying. The  brass plugs will stick into the block further than the steel ones by 3/8 " I'm wondering why and if it makes a difference?

I am truly embarrassed.  After reading above I re-read your post and gave myself the V8 forehead slap!  5/8 thick metal would be a bit much for freeze plugs, wouldn't it?

As for slag and junk leftover from cleaning, I use a brake cylinder hone to clean the holes that you can get deep enough into and a wire brush in a drill motor for the rest.

I know a couple of guys who used to tack weld the steel plugs in a couple of spots.  They have never experienced an unschedule auto-removal after that!  NASCAR guys thread the holes and screw in plugs.

[moper]

The old Raqmchargers books IIRC have pictures of straps and screws over them. I've never lost one...lol. But I know those who have.

[Aussie Challenger]

Brass plugs have worked fine for me. Used many over the years and no problems, but I can't remember how thick vs. the originals.

 We used to install them last after painting the engine so the shiny brass material showed. 

     I only use brass plugs and install after painting as above, I smear GM thread sealer around before installing and have never had a problem or one come out.   
  Under extreme conditions like NASCAR I would use threaded plugs.   

[BoughtItNew]

BTW Never use screw in plugs on a daily driver.  They will NEVER come out even if a block overpressurizes or freezes.