Author Topic: Door ajar switch  (Read 2000 times)

Offline RaptorF229

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Door ajar switch
« on: August 07, 2008 - 11:48:49 PM »
My door ajar switches are missing. Has anyone found  a work around to make this light work again.




Offline FY1Cuda

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Re: Door ajar switch
« Reply #1 on: August 08, 2008 - 11:40:42 AM »
This has come up before:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=47222.0

Did you do anything special to make the "low fuel" light work?  Our's stays on all the time (so we took the bulb out).
« Last Edit: August 08, 2008 - 11:44:00 AM by FY1Cuda »

Offline RaptorF229

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Re: Door ajar switch
« Reply #2 on: August 08, 2008 - 12:41:20 PM »
yes the dark blue wire on the instrument cluster was not connected. Do you have the wiringg diagram for the low fuel light?

Offline FY1Cuda

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Re: Door ajar switch
« Reply #3 on: August 08, 2008 - 05:57:18 PM »
I'm looking at the wiring diagram (but the car isn't here).       
On the stock rallye cluster diagram you have a blue wire (G4-18DBL) and the black jumper wire from the temp gauge going to the fuel gauge.
On the ACCESSORY wiring diagram, it shows the same blue G4-18DBL going to the same place on the gauge AND another blue wire, G4A-DBL, going to other side of the gauge (where the black jumper wire would be). Maybe I don't have both blue wires plugged in.  Thanks for the heads-up.  I remember that one of the blue wires is in the taped-up main harness.  Is the other one, G4A-DBL coming over from the glove box side? By itself or with others?
Thanks.

Offline 71 DEPUTY

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Re: Door ajar switch
« Reply #4 on: August 08, 2008 - 09:15:28 PM »
FYI the normal dark blue wire that feeds the gauge + 5 volts is removed off the gas gauge.

the low fuel relay supplies the needed power thru it's dark blue wire to the gauge. the relay then gets it's +12 volts via another different wire that goes to the acc. 3 bullet connector in the dash harness.

John Mac

Offline RaptorF229

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Re: Door ajar switch
« Reply #5 on: August 08, 2008 - 10:31:43 PM »
that was the issue with mine. The db wire from the harness was not connected. I used the chassis electical diagram and a wiring diagram from mopar forum to figure it out

Offline FY1Cuda

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Re: Door ajar switch
« Reply #6 on: August 09, 2008 - 11:25:12 AM »
Thanks to both of you.  I'll be crawling under the dash shortly.

Offline FY1Cuda

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Re: Door ajar switch
« Reply #7 on: August 11, 2008 - 01:45:26 AM »
I looked under the dash and am still confused.  The fuel gauge has the blue wire from the harness and the little jumper wire that connects the temp and fuel gauges.  I thought Raptor was saying he plugged in the blue wire to make it work, it sounds like Deputy says I need to remove it, and the accessory wiring diagram shows two blue wires (one from the low-fuel relay and one from the main harness) going to the gauge.  I do see that the diagram shows a black wire connecting the relay with one of the 3-bullet connector.
Please try again to enlighten me.

Offline 71 DEPUTY

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Re: Door ajar switch
« Reply #8 on: August 11, 2008 - 08:14:09 AM »
the existing setup for the gauages without the low fuel setup is this- the three gauges are powered from a 5 volt limiter vis the black jumpered wires.

for the LFR setup that black wire is removed from the gauge and tucked out of the way.

the LFR harness has a extra blue wire- it goes where the old black wire on the gauge.
the dark blue wire with a tracer then goes to the low fuel light.
the black wire goes to + 12 volts via the yellow three holes bullet connector.

the steel shell of the LFR also has to be grounded- there might be a black wire with a tracer on it connected there.

hope this helps!

John Mac

Offline FY1Cuda

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Re: Door ajar switch
« Reply #9 on: August 11, 2008 - 12:11:30 PM »
This thread is still called "door ajar switch" so thanks for your indulgence.  I really appreciate your explanation.  When I was under there yesterday, I was looking for the other blue wire coming from the direction of the relay, but didn't see one.  Most of the wiring in the car was undisturbed, and so I was figuring that I just didn't put it back together correctly when I had the cluster out to clean and polish.
Thanks.  I'll poke around some more.