Electronic Tach and Clock

[73EStroker]

Well I installed the kits from RTE for the electronic conversions for tach and clock. Tach was a piece of cake and I have purchased and recommend to everyone else the tach excerciser ($30). Most of our tachs have been sitting idle for a loooooonnnnng time so damage can occur if you try and fire them up without some basic maintenance. After installing the new board I lubed the bearings with a minute amount of 3 in 1 oil in each small bronze bearing then placed the excerciser on it. The needle gently swings from about 1000 - 7000 RPM so I did this for about 4 hours. The excerciser then puts out both a 1000 / 4000 RPM signals which are calibrated on the tach with separate potentiometers. Takes a bit of fiddling around to get it right as adjusting the 1000RPM pot also readjusts the 4000RPM setting so small adjustments on both are required. This is why I recommend the excerciser as if this was done with the tach in the car revving the engine from 1000 to 4000 RPM for at least an hour will probably use $30 worth of gas anyway.
Clock was another story with all those bits flying around the shop floor when I sneezed on them. I found them though. The best advice is to throw those small squeeze rivets for reinstalling the face that they give you and use 3/32" pop rivets then dab some matt black paint on them afterwards like I did. This makes it possible to squeeze the tabs that hold the clock mechanism together before installing the face. Then the face is pop rivetted on last and the paint thing is next. Now I have a clock that is right on the money timewise.

Hope this article is inspirational to some or all.

 

[73Chally]

I did the same things you did, and can not be happier.  The only exception is that I sent my tach in and had them replace the board and calibrate, because I'm not very good with soldering.  Half the board would be covered with the flux before I was done.  The clock was super easy except for the rivets, like you mentioned.  I don't have a rivet gun, so I just had to work with what they sent.  It took a few minutes of frustration, but I was finally able to get it together.  I love finally having a clock and tach that work.

[Chryco Psycho]

mine are next 

[JayBee]

Greg did both of mine for me. I kind of miss seeing the ticking of the second though.
Oh, and if the cluster is out you may want to consider his 5V regulator/limiter.

[VTMopar]

My November project -- and taking the hint from 73EStroker, I'm going be sure to get a Flu shot first so I don't sneeze 

Vermont MOPAR

[73EStroker]

I also did the regulator and built my own for about $1.50. If you go this way just make sure the regulator mounting screw is tight into a good thread on the guage cluster metal because if it comes loose (just like if the originals do) you will place a full 12V to your guages and "poof" goes your guages. I will JB weld mine to avoid this possible catastrophe.

[VTMopar]

RTEStroker -- thanks for the advice.    I just read the pages from Real Time Engineering -- those guys are good -- and very helpful!

Vermont MOPAR