Author Topic: Rear main oil seal questions on a 440  (Read 884 times)

Offline NorthWestcuda

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Rear main oil seal questions on a 440
« on: March 01, 2009 - 12:55:56 AM »
1) I've notice from this site that one of the tricks when installing a new rear main oil seal is to stagger the top & bottom seals themselves by about 1/4 of an inch so they don't seal exactly where the block and rear main cap come together.  I would like to do this but I'm wondering how you make sure the 1/4 inch of rear main seal that is in the cap actually fits into the appropriate 1/4 space in the block?  My engine is still in the car which I'm sure makes this harder to do.

2). I think I know how to get the old seal out from under the crank, but just to make sure do you CAREFULLY push one side of the seal out with a punch until you can grab the other end with pliers?
 
3). When installing the new seal under the crank (I haven't dropped my crank at all) do you need any special tools or do you just try and push it through and around the crank. It seems like it wouldn't just push through and around the crank.  Do you coat the seal with anything to make it slide\install easier?

4)  I've noticed that the 'small angled groves" around my crank where the seal rides is worn down compared to the area that the seal doesn't ride\touch.  Is this a big issue? 

5). Wouldn't I have some oil on my flex plate if I had an oil seal leak?

6). I've read in my "hayes manual" that the seal retainer side seals are supposed to be pre-oiled before inserting them in the groves.  Is that still the case with the side seals?

When answering these questions remember the 440 is still in the car and I haven't bought the rear main seal or seal retainer seal kit yet.

Thanks     
1973 Cuda, 440 engine
1972 Chevy 4x4 PU stepside
2003 Ford F-350 Diesel




Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Rear main oil seal questions on a 440
« Reply #1 on: March 01, 2009 - 01:22:16 AM »
You have the right idea , I also stagger the seal ends & use  a small amount of silicone as well , the stagger in the seal will even itself out as the plate is positioned
There is a wire re-enforcement inside the seal so you have to drag the seal virtually all the way around the crank before it comes free
you want to carefully slide the seal around the crank to install it as well , lube it with oil on the way in
the crank may be worn where the angled grooves are but there is really nothing that can be done to repair it
 generally yes the flex plate will have oil o it from a rear main seal leak
the side seals are supposed to swell to seal , I generally coat everything with ultra Black silicone though , a billet plate may help it seal better as well

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