Speaking of piston trouble. I need your opinions please

[femtnmax]

I bought a complete 360 short block, unassembled, from the local machine shop.  The previous owner is in prison, won't be needing his engine any time soon.
So I got a H.... of a deal.   
The pistons are all new, KB hyper.  I know what some of you are mumbling.  I have NEVER run them either.
WELL. .... one of the pistons has one of the pin bores with scuff marks lengthwise with the pin bore axis.   I asked a second machine shop and the crank grinder/balance guy what they thought.   Everyone thinks it will be ok.   
The car's not going to be a race car, just run on the roads regularly, but we are supposed to build a bullet proof bottom end for our engines.
What do you guys think?  I can always change it out if it starts to rattle, and you know how it is trying to build a whole car, the cost keeps climbing.
Any suggestions of preferred piston brands?  The build is relatively mild, maybe 400 hp, and will keep 6000 rpm or less.   So I don't think I need forged, and they rattle so bad on start up here in the cold climate.   
But I am truly open to all opinions.

[73EStroker]

I am a fan of only using forged. No rattles in mine at start. They are Ross with a 0.0004" skirt clearance. That is what the instructions from Ross said to do. forged take a lot more Shiite and Abuse.

[71chally416]

I am a fan of only using forged. No rattles in mine at start. They are Ross with a 0.0004" skirt clearance. That is what the instructions from Ross said to do. forged take a lot more Shiite and Abuse.

WOW! That's almost a press fit. 

[Chryco Psycho]

Change them now , the cost of the gaskets set to fit it later assuming there is no other damage is going to be close to 1/2 the cost of a good piston now
JE Ross , Diamond , Speed Pro , all make  good Mopar pistons

[Ck[FIN]]

Change them now , the cost of the gaskets set to fit it later assuming there is no other damage is going to be close to 1/2 the cost of a good piston now
JE Ross , Diamond , Speed Pro , all make  good Mopar pistons

  I have also used probe pistons, they also worked very well in my blower engine. I have heard that ross makes them?

[femtnmax]

Thanks to all.  I'll be looking for pistons, and they won't be KB.

[moper]

I run them in most street engines. A scuff in the pin bore is not a big deal. I would run it as is. Plenty of great race enignes run KB hypers, and the blocks give out before the pistons. Especially with hypers being so light, and the cast 360 crank, you'll need to rebalance, and probably will need Mallory. You also should bush the small ends of the rods if you go with a good piston like Diamond. It's your dime or dimes, but it's money you dont need to spend for your intended use. The issues with these pistons always, and I mena always, are the result of installer/machinist error. Either in spec'ing the wrong design (blower/turbo/NOS/piston speed), too much bore clearance (they are meant to run very tight piston to wall), or ring gapping (because they don't feel the need to read the enclosed instructions).

[71chally416]

Most all OEM engines get by pretty well with cast pistons. If you're not using a power adder or the hose I'd use them and not worry about it. Just take Mopers advice and make sure they read the directions about the special ring gaps they use. 

[femtnmax]

Ahhh... more good comments.   As you mentioned, I'm not using power adders, and the ring gaps have been set per KB's instructions.   The rods are Eagle with full float pins.
On my 340 duster, when  I tore it down after 140,000 kinda hard miles, some of the piston pins were turning in the pistons, some in the rod bushing.  Didn't seem to matter to the engine.   The KB pistons are the older style with a dedicated oil hole feeding oil from the oil ring groove to each of the piston pin bores.
I tried to buy a replacement piston from KB, but they said there had been a material change, and the new pistons were considerably heavier.... no way to lighten them enough to match the set I had.