Author Topic: How To Choose A Torque Converter?  (Read 11688 times)

Offline tactransman

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Re: How To Choose A Torque Converter?
« Reply #15 on: April 22, 2009 - 05:18:31 PM »


Remember to use bolt in sprag if you use cheetah valve body.
A bolt in sprag does not make the sprag any stronger. it is really to repair a case that the outer sprag race has been blown out.

The only way to get a stronger sprag is to put in an Ultimate Sprag or Super Sprag from A&A or Coan. It has 16 rollers instead of the stock 12.
« Last Edit: April 22, 2009 - 05:23:58 PM by tactransman »
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Offline 71chally416

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Re: How To Choose A Torque Converter?
« Reply #16 on: April 22, 2009 - 05:47:50 PM »
The trick to not rolling the sprag is to do your burnout in 2nd gear. Don't even use 1st. I suppose you need a special VB and sprag for a street driven car but I used the old Reverse pattern TA VB in my fastest automatic race car and never blew anything using a stock sprag and a model J vert. It did have an aluminum drum. It held up in a car that went as quick as 8.08 before I switched to the Lenco. 
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Offline Carlwalski

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Re: How To Choose A Torque Converter?
« Reply #17 on: April 22, 2009 - 11:20:35 PM »


Thanks everyone, much appreciated. I have seen the low band thing pop up a lot during searches here and the Charger forum. Sounds like the only way to go. Do you guys think a manual valve body behind a 660-700hp street car with good torque will be OK, in terms of longevity and holding up to daily street driving and the "occasional" WOT treatment 1-3 times every time out. Terry, it wouldn't be overkill to get a Super sprag 16 roller would it? Or is it a case of, it won't hurt.

Terry - I will contact him again, he is a busy guy, he does all the work himself. :cheers:
« Last Edit: April 22, 2009 - 11:22:18 PM by Carlwalski »
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Offline 71chally416

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Re: How To Choose A Torque Converter?
« Reply #18 on: April 22, 2009 - 11:40:00 PM »
That info has been out for decades and was even in the old white factory race manual that was released in the 70's when MP was still Direct Connection. Only ignorance of the proper way to come out of the water box has caused sprag failure problems. And the drum is what fails, so an aluminum drum on a fast race car is mandatory. On a street car just use common sense and follow the one cardinal rule and you'll be fine with whatever VB you use. :2cents:
   
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Offline tactransman

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Re: How To Choose A Torque Converter?
« Reply #19 on: April 23, 2009 - 07:04:31 AM »
Do you guys think a manual valve body behind a 660-700hp street car with good torque will be OK, in terms of longevity and holding up to daily street driving and the "occasional" WOT treatment 1-3 times every time out. Yes

Terry, it wouldn't be overkill to get a Super sprag 16 roller would it? Or is it a case of, it won't hurt.A super sprag is always a good idea.


Terry-tactransman 
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Union, Mo.
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day,teach him to fish and he eats for a lifetime.

Offline tactransman

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Re: How To Choose A Torque Converter?
« Reply #20 on: April 23, 2009 - 07:20:23 AM »
Even if you don't do a burnout in first gear,when you get up to the line and you torque up that engine and launch. All of the torque is on the low sprag by itself,with the low band on it holds 90% of the torque.

I have three Nostalgia Super Stock Max Wedge race cars that I sponsor that run mid 9's with 3800 4000 pound cars and they run Turbo Action NON low band apply VB's and have never hurt a sprag,I tell them how ever you are doing your driving,KEEP doing it because you are not hurting anything!  :cheers:

Terry-tactransman 
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Union, Mo.
Give a man a fish and he eats for a day,teach him to fish and he eats for a lifetime.

moparniac

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Re: How To Choose A Torque Converter?
« Reply #21 on: April 23, 2009 - 09:06:42 AM »

 Do you guys think a manual valve body behind a 660-700hp street car with good torque will be OK, in terms of longevity and holding up to daily street driving and the "occasional" WOT treatment 1-3 times every time out.


works fine for me  :cooldancing:

Offline 71chally416

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Re: How To Choose A Torque Converter?
« Reply #22 on: April 23, 2009 - 11:51:22 AM »
Maybe this will put your mind to rest. 727 with aluminum drum (only not stock hard part), TA reverse manual VB, some internal parts machined to lighten assembly, TA Model J  convertor, stock spag, NO trans brake. At this HP level we got a racing season out of the vert before sending it back to TA for a rebuild in the winter. In retrospect we should have used a larger 10" diameter unit.

http://streetwalker.homestead.com/files/RRLR1.wmv

Now you see why I always recommend the 904 type tranny with the 2.74 low gear in mild small block applications. The 727 is obviously a very strong transmission and is overkill for a mild small block car.  :2cents:   

Once we had Ronald Reagan, Bob Hope & Johnny Cash. Now we have Obama, No Hope and No Cash!