AiRSensors N-8A-HD EFI setup questions (old Skool EFI)

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    Author Topic: AiRSensors N-8A-HD EFI setup questions (old Skool EFI)  (Read 5722 times)

    Offline 1971Challenger

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    AiRSensors N-8A-HD EFI setup questions (old Skool EFI)
    « on: July 29, 2009 - 09:04:28 AM »
    Hello Everyone,

    I just bought a AiRSensors N-8A-HD system. (It was also sold as B&M Superjection) While used it came with all the peices. Here are the stats:

    system designed for 260-500 CID V-8 applications 120-400 HP

    -1000 CFM Throttle body -Air filter and plenum -Remote air mass sensor assembly -System computer -Four injector throttle body

    -fuel pump -Fuel pressure Regulator -Engine timing sensor -Engine temperature sensor -Wiring harness

    my motor is a 360CID / 380HP crate, so this seems like it will fill the bill.

    A few questions:
    * Has anyone run this type of system (or familar with this setup)?
    * It requires a return fuel line 1/4" or larger. Does it matter which "tap" I use on top of the tank? I would perfer not to drop the tank.
    * From the electric high pressure fuel pump it states "use only double braided high pressure hose (aeroquip 1525-hose side code) USE EXCLUSIVELY from outlet pump to fuel rails. -I have read about steel line setups the whole way from the pump (which will be back near the tank) right up to regulator. Any thoughs one this one? 
    * Ram Air / air intake. I was hoping to duct a cold/ram air into the MAF any thoughts? or does someone make a inexpensive ram air system to mate with my R/T type hood?
    *Should I just resell this sucker and get a holly 750 double pumper? (Which I went on to eBay to get, but *poof* somehow I bough this)

    a pic of "the system" attached.

    Thanks Guys,
    //Tom
    « Last Edit: July 30, 2009 - 01:05:03 PM by 1971Challenger »
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    "Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car. "Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car. "Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence. "Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.


    Offline 1971Challenger

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    Fuel pump block off plate
    « Reply #1 on: July 29, 2009 - 05:54:46 PM »
    oh, and when I remove the mechanical fuel pump, and that rod falls down (right?) Do I need to do anything other than bolt the block off plate on? that "push rod" just sits there in the block?

    Thanks,
    //Tom
    Logged
    "Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car. "Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car. "Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence. "Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.

    Offline MEK-Dangerfield

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    Re: Fuel pump block off plate
    « Reply #2 on: July 29, 2009 - 06:53:07 PM »
    Quote from: 1971Challenger on July 29, 2009 - 05:54:46 PM
    oh, and when I remove the mechanical fuel pump, and that rod falls down (right?) Do I need to do anything other than bolt the block off plate on? that "push rod" just sits there in the block?

    Thanks,
    //Tom


    Hey Tom,

      I wish I could answer all of your questions, but you are beyond my knowledge.   :lol:

    When you remove the mechanical fuel pump, you shouldn't have to do anything else besides put on the block off plate. I was recently educated that the pushrods were just in big block engines. Your mechanical pump is actually making contact with the cam, so no pushrod.


      Mike
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    Mike

    1970 Challenger - SOLD
    2016 SXT+.  1 of 524 SXT+'s in Plumb-crazy for 2016.

    Offline gkring

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    Re: AiRSensors N-8A-HD EFI setup questions (old Skool EFI)
    « Reply #3 on: July 29, 2009 - 11:47:02 PM »
    Buy a gas gauge unit with a 3/8 feed and the return line built in for the best pump feed and an easy return line setup. You can use metal lines for the fuel lines and short pieces of FUEL INJECTION hose where needed. The braided AN line is overkill, but easier to run than hard line. Since you have it I would try it, but I wouldn't dump any money into it if it gives you problems. I am 100% for fuel injection, even basic ones like this are better than 99% of the carb setups out there.
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    Greg
    1970 Challenger convertible-in process
    1970 Barracuda driver

    Offline Chryco Psycho

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    Re: AiRSensors N-8A-HD EFI setup questions (old Skool EFI)
    « Reply #4 on: July 30, 2009 - 03:53:19 AM »
    I agree this should work well , what are you going to use for rails , injectors & manifold?
     I built a similar system last year on a 440 project
     the return has to be away from the pick up tube or you will geta airation at th epick up but otherwise any inlet is OK, the new sender is another possibility as well .
     on the system I built I ran a 3/8" hard line all the way up 1 to each rail / 4 injectors but it was an 800 HP system , I agree that standard EFI hose is adequate for the 45 PSI needed
     connecting a Ram air into the MAF is OK
     I think Eddy has a predrilled Air gap inatke with rails available , then you still need injectors
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    Offline thedodgeboys

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    Re: AiRSensors N-8A-HD EFI setup questions (old Skool EFI)
    « Reply #5 on: July 30, 2009 - 04:02:56 AM »
    Actually, from that picture it’s a standalone unit meaning it should work with your current manifold.  :2thumbs:
    Run your fuel lines hook it up and have some fun.   :burnout: You own it so just try it out. :working:
    Please keep us posted.
     :bigsmile:
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    Offline 1971Challenger

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    Re: AiRSensors N-8A-HD EFI setup questions (old Skool EFI)
    « Reply #6 on: July 30, 2009 - 09:29:35 AM »
    Hey Guys,

    Thanks for your info. This setup is a "bolt on" kit. The throttle body includes the injectors and has a 'Holley' bolt pattern. The computer allows for on the fly adjustments of A/F, accel, Idle, etc. So it will bolt right up to my M1 single plane high rise intake.

    I just need to get a primary and high pressure secondary fuel filter, a mech. fuel pump block off plate, a bunch of 3/8" line, a fuel pressure guage, and perhaps a vac gauge.

    gkring: what sytem are you refering to? (I was looking out at summit racing for something like this)
    Quote from: gkring on July 29, 2009 - 11:47:02 PM
    Buy a gas gauge unit with a 3/8 feed and the return line built in for the best pump feed and an easy return line setup.

    The only thing I'm not crazy about (not that I installed it yet) is that now the air filter will be kicked off to one side that will most likley sit over or very near the headers. I was trying to figure out a way to extend the air intake tube to the front to get fresh cold air. Blasting 3-4" holes to pass through the radator valance is something I would avoid..

    But Yes, when I get this system going, I will let you guys know how I made out and post a bunch of pics.  :picture:
    « Last Edit: July 30, 2009 - 01:03:47 PM by 1971Challenger »
    Logged
    "Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car. "Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car. "Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence. "Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.

    Offline Chryco Psycho

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    Re: AiRSensors N-8A-HD EFI setup questions (old Skool EFI)
    « Reply #7 on: July 30, 2009 - 11:16:07 AM »
    You are right Dodge Boys the system has the injectors on the side of the throttle body , he had not listed the injectors & I didn`t look close enough at the picture
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    Offline gkring

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    Re: AiRSensors N-8A-HD EFI setup questions (old Skool EFI)
    « Reply #8 on: July 31, 2009 - 12:07:11 AM »
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RSD-ESU7002/
    http://www.summitracing.com/parts/GMK-2120-755-702/
    looks like they stock the goodmark one now, but the other brand is a little cheaper with a wait time.
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    Greg
    1970 Challenger convertible-in process
    1970 Barracuda driver

    Offline 1971Challenger

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    Re: AiRSensors N-8A-HD EFI setup questions (old Skool EFI)
    « Reply #9 on: July 31, 2009 - 11:25:54 AM »
    Ahh, now I see what you meant gkring. (pics (and links) are worth a 1000 words!))

    I will crawl under my tank and see what I see. I know that the top of my sender has 4(or more?) lines coming out. It came with the charcoal vapor system. I'm hoping that there are 2, 3/8" lines up there. Plus I would prefer not to drop the tank and replace the sender unit. But if I have trouble I will go with what you recommend. Thank you, I did not even consider your solution.

    I will search after I post this, but is there a schematic / listing of nipples that come of the top of the tanks? (my tank 1972 E body, with vapor /  charcoal recovery system.)
    Logged
    "Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car. "Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car. "Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence. "Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.

    Offline gkring

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    Re: AiRSensors N-8A-HD EFI setup questions (old Skool EFI)
    « Reply #10 on: August 01, 2009 - 10:15:59 PM »
    Your vent lines are coming out the passenger side. The fuel gauge sender is on the drivers side. Neither requires dropping  the tank to access.
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    Greg
    1970 Challenger convertible-in process
    1970 Barracuda driver

    Offline 1971Challenger

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    Re: AiRSensors N-8A-HD EFI setup questions (old Skool EFI)
    « Reply #11 on: August 02, 2009 - 09:58:35 AM »
    Thanks gkring !

    Yourself and everyone else here are GREAT!  :bigsmile:
    Logged
    "Understeer" is when you hit the fence with the front of the car. "Oversteer" is when you hit the fence with the rear of the car. "Horsepower" is how fast you hit the fence. "Torque" is how far you take the fence with you.
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